Saying goodbye to Miles & Dusty yesterday was sad. During the long ride, our paths had crossed many times but now it is unlikely this will happen again. These two guys have been the best of friends for many years, know each other inside out, are as different as chalk cheese, but totally committed to supporting each other.

Today, the cold weather came in but it did not mstter. My entire time was was spent of practical, things. Calling in on work, boxing my bike, washing clothes & tidying myself up. On this, I thought I’d get a haircut so called in at the Gentleman’s Republic barbersalon. On entering, I immediately realised this establishment was a little special. Only the receptionist was in view, the clients were tucked away in swish personal rooms, the waiting room had up to-date books & papers with decanters of full of spirits, plus a large display of interesting historical artefacts. I asked if the they could provide a $10 cut, explaining that it would only take 3 minutes & be extremely profitable work. They were asking $40 + tax, we finally agreed on $20 with tax. Coffee was served & my Mexican hairdresser led me away to her room – containing 3 chairs (one for each stage in the process) & many mirrors.

The Barbers waiting Room

For 30 mins she worked on my hair & face, and then the neck massage. The receptionist agreed for the establishment to extend this special deal to all fellow Dividers & believe a visit to this place should be compulsory after every 3000 mile cycle ride!

Today was the last day of our bike ride & by the end of it I had cycled 45miles & been shuttled 150miles across the state line to El Paso TX. Our journey done, no peddling tomorrow- my bike will be boxed & will have to look elsewhere for tomorrow’s adventure!

The day started in the normal way. Up at first light, 6:30am, a high calorie breakfast & prepared to ride. Jeff Sharp was already up & had shuttled two Dividers. Until five years ago he had lived Washington state but encouraged here by his partner & a desire for more sunshine/ less rain. In its past, Hachita had been a railway town, then a mining town but no more. Now, As Hachita’s new resident entrepreneur he is working to discover how the place can be reinvented/reenergised.

Jeffery Sharp – Ranch House & shuttle service provider

His Ranch House provides Dividers accommodation, his shuttle service takes them on to airports, etc. and now has a deal with the locals on the Community Centre – he tells me he can do what he wants to the building providing he pays.

At 65, he mentioned I was oldest Divide Rider to come through this year. Not a bad position to hold & is quite possible since no one i met has seen anyone my side of 60. Thankfully, Jeff saved me from another ride through the wet clay & ferried me back to the Community Centre his pickup – that wasn’t easy either!

Divide Riders completing the whole ride have been averaging two per day – Today there were eight.

Five keen Dividers – set for the last 45 miles

(Three had already started off)

The ride was flat with no appreciable hills -,just the normal headwind to contend with.

Decision time for some: Antelope Wells or the Columbus Alternate

Joao, 20 miles out from Antelope Wells

Dusty & Miles: 2nd breakfast at a deserted farm

As Dusty, Miles, Joao & me arrived at Antelope Wells, Karey Todd & her fella greeted us each with a bottle of cold beer. JOB DONE!

On the Border: back wheel in USA front wheel in Mexico

Entrance to Antelope Wells US Customs Border – the Dividers dream shot

Border Patrol, Leading Officer-Sean Goggin

Sean, a keen cyclist himself, was magnificent & understood the significance of his small isolated border post to our travelling Divide community. He, together with his Mexican counterpart, facilitated our crossing to Mexico for the passport stamp & our prompt re-entry to the USA.

The time had come to say goodbye to Joao. His cycling is not quite done. He has chosen to cycle the 3days/250 miles to Tucson AZ.

The shuttle driver was keenly waiting so before we know it we were traveling at what felt like enormous speed towards El Paso. Inside the cab, we remained quiet for most of the journey – a mix of tiredness & sense of occasion, I guess.

8:15 am – Miles, Dusty & I set off from the Murray Hotel & rode to Hachita, 72 miles to the south. The high mountains were finally behind us, replaced with high desert – mesas & rolling hills.

Miles – climbing out of Silver City

The 40 mile stretch of clay road between White Signal & Separ was dry enough to ride on without too much difficulty & we were back on to gravel & metalled roads before the new rains had time to deteriorate.

Dusty on the clay roads

Crickets here are big & plentiful

Often seen staggering on the trail. This fellow is about 50mm!

Lunched at Separ, a huge store that tries to sell everything – about 20 staff & hardly any customers.

1st sign showing Antelope Wells & journey’s end

Another Divide Crossing on route to Hachita

Dusk & best light as we approach Hatchita

Today, Hachita was having bi-annual reunion – past & present residents reunited at the community centre – eat & drink home cooked food & weird, potent brews, dance & reminisce. Divide riders were present in force & were made very welcome. Poor weather (recent & future) had funnelled about dozen of us together &, on this night, some more than others, made our mark. Karey Todd was in her element & ma great ambassador for our group – chatting & dancing with one & all.

I accepted a bed for the night from Shuttle organiser, Jeff Sharp, he had promised a hot shower &, 1 mile west of the noise, a quite night’s sleep. I found it at the end of the worst dirt road of the entire ride – a most unexpected challenge which left my bike & packs in caked in clay.

A rest day and, for the last time, an opportunity to get supplies for the last two days. Now in Silver City, my finishing date is clear so needed to organise my way back into the real world. Most of the day was spent securing the 150mile ride from Antelope Wells to El Paso, locating a bike shop to box my bike, accommodation, flights, etc.

Outside, it rained all day, nonstop. Plus, the forecast, which changes by the hour, currently shows we may be riding in it.

Downtown Silver City

In better weather & with more time, Silver City would have been a great place to explore. As with the Pinos Altos, Indian attacks on the town caused the place to be abandoned in the 1860’s. It was the home of Billy the Kid – for which much is made. The place also has good walks & nearby historical sights dating back to the Spanish occupation & before. Indian tribes around here were some of the most advanced in the North America.

An early start for our long day

Lunch stop at Lake Roberts – before the last big climb

Wild southern NM

Historic, Pinos Altos – was deserted in 1862 due to harassment from Indians & resettle later following a treaty

Another Divide Crossing – altitude getting lower as we head south

We reached Silver City around 6pm & headed for the Little Toad Creek bar – highly recommend. Had a few beers, a meal & watched local group – Bitches & the Beehive perform. Bed was at the Murray Hotel.

Last night the temperature dropped to -10C with thick frost outside & inside my tent – not much sleep became of it. Main problem was cold feet. The PHD booties were not up to the job. We delayed our start until 10:30am to allow the warming sun to dry out our soaked tents & sleeping bags.

Good news – gone was the miserable weather of the past week, replaced with a warm, sunny day & only a light headwind. Without my fleece & rain gear I saw NM in anew & it is stunning and unique place.

Being on the Divide, there were climbs but in NM they are far shorter – no more 39 milers to contend with.

We shared the campground with riders met in Pie Town. Into the night we all stood, circling a blazing campfire, swapping stories of our journey to this place. Each of us had been on the ride for such a long time, much had become a blur but we new that Silver City, only one day away, is the beginning of the end. Here we would have to plan our returns back to the real world.

Tomorrow will be the toughest of the four days out of Pie Town with over 7,000ft of climbs & 60 miles.

Last night I had most of my layers on & managed a good nights sleep though the heavy rides & relentless wind & cold which continued again were beginning to tire us all. Riding was often at our own pace, well strung out along the track & occasionally together for a chat. With the ever changing weather, there were many stops to add or remove gear. One minute sunny next rain or hail. – but always wind.

We travelled through canyons, forests, a vast dry lake, and open wasteland. All spectacular but would have been appreciated more in better weather.

Set up camp prepared for another cold night.

In the morning, amongst the hostel guests, was my Portuguese friend, Joao. Another great surprise & a such a coming together in this isolated place.

The morning was spent finishing drying out my kit, removing clay from the bike & chatting with other lodgers. To ride on or stay was the hot topic & would depend whether we believed it would stay dry – but there was no way of knowing. Some riders decided to stay over, Joao, Dusty, Miles & me did not.

Around noon, we set off for Silver City, 4 day’s/180miles ride south through wilderness & the last section of real climbs of the GDMBR route.

We achieved 29 miles before setting up camp. The ride had again been tough – cold, headwinds, hail, rain. Lucky for us, the clay roads gave no problems.

Miles – on the move.

Today’s ranch sign – in wild NM, that are becoming rarer by the day

Church that once served community that has long since left

Lunch – taken huddled again the canyon rocks away from the cold wind & snow.

Hunting for water – near dried up pond of mucky water to filter – only water source of the day

Out of nowhere, an old gent trundled by on his ATV, with dog happily chilling on the back

Miles, wanted his story – He had purchased land and moved here around 2006. With the land being too poor to farm, we struggled how he survive financially in such isolation. We concluded he didn’t need to. When the roads are passible he will travel to Silver City. When they are bad, he stays home & reads. Shops, doctors & other normal support services don’t exist here. He said – if there’s a problem you have to sort it / there generally no one around to help here – nearest true town (with real people) is 60+ miles away

End of day ride descent to camp

It’s great for me to ride with these guys again. Today was tough & the support provided to each other definitely lifted the spirits following the previous weeks challenges.

Grants is a railway town on Route 66 & I-40. Grant is not an attractive time, a mix railway & service industries to serve all the through traffic.

Last night, I called into the local saloon & found myself celebrating Antonio’s 21st birthday with friends.

I stayed longer than I should have so a slightly later departure today.

My target was Pie Town. The Guide proposed 2 days to cover the 75 miles. well achievable (so I thought) if the wind behaved & the forecast for no rain was correct.

As it happened, the 1st 35 miles were against very strong headwinds and the last 30 miles then just stopped.

El Malpais National Monument

Next thing , the temperature dropped & it rained, the hailed & snowed the last 27 miles.

Turning onto the clay road & into the weather- Pie Town, 27 miles on

The clay roads became near impassable. It was a testing experience – especially in the dark. At one point my bike became solid with clay & unridable. I managed to drag it half a mile to firm ground, free the wheels & drive & remount. I decided that keeping the wheels spinning was the best way prevent a recurrence & luckily it worked – though the climbs up the clay sodden parts were a little challenging.

I reached the hostel at Pie Town at 9:45pm – after 12 hours of nonstop riding. I opened the door, freezing but elated. Inside I discovered a wonderfully warm, small room of fellow bikers & hikers – among them was Miles – great reunion! A hot cup of tea & food was quickly provided whilst I described how the horrendous conditions. Some guys were still out there, somewhere?

From here it is only 300 miles to Antelope Wells – and the end of this adventure. However – weather that is forecast is risking this part to be the most interesting / memorable!

I took full benefit of the Launderette’s offer to Dividers of free coffee & use of bathroom & WiFi before setting off.

Today was a very hard ride. 72 miles against a strong headwind on undulating hills. I had to work for every mile – whether up or down.

My ride through Navajo country is high desert – typical views along the way.

Land use being farming, open cast coal mining & gas extraction. The remainder is wilderness of which there is a lot

Finally, I reached Grants at dusk. Settled myself into the Sands Motel (no Frank Sinatra) & across the road for a beer.