I had been alone in the hostel, not even a manager. All managed by security codes.

Del Norte Hostel – open plan – 8 bunk beds lounge & kitchen

Before leaving, I bumped into Joao again, we had a little chat on yesterday’s ride & bike issues. He needed to stop over. For me, though midday, I was keen to tackle Indiana Pass, the highest point on the Divider at 11,910ft.

The ride gradually left the plains & reentered the Rockies for the 23mile climb.

Del Norte – Farmed Bison

 

Del Norte house – planning permission does matter too much here

Today’s Ranch Sign – Quaint

Homesteads often decorate their fronts with old wagons or farm machinery

Reentering the huge Rio Grande NP

The summit above the tree line, may not be the most spectacular view but to me, a major milestone in my journey!

Views looking back during the climb

Indiana Pass – highest point on the Divide. (disappointing to discover no signs)

Photos near the top of the pass

Looking back to the north, I could see rain, to the south, clear skies & the route to New Mexico. Who could want more!! One complaint, the summit of the pass is not clearly marked.

By the time I reached the gold mining, ghost town of Summitville, it was less than 1hr to dark. The place dates back to the 1880s, & at its peak, had 1,500 residents – the last 8 occupants only departed in 1956, forced to do so because they were polluting the water. Unlike South Pass, here I could touch the past & remoteness.

Tonight, I selected the least derelict home & slept with the ghosts – for one night only – increasing the population from zero to one!

The critters were pretty noisy outside my tent & needed to resort ear plugs. I’m sure this is not good practice with bears but I needed the sleep!

Old homestead

My camp had been next to an old dilapidated, homesteaders cabin – small & basic. Its easy to imagine a family this as a family home in the wilderness & the simple, hard life they inevitably endured, especially during the long winters at 9,000ft.

I packed & continued the climb up to Carnero Pass. As with Cochetopa Pass, this dirt road was a major construction & a gradient suggesting an important rail or stagecoach route. Today it is the opposite. Other than me, not one single soul or vehicle did I see.

Today’s Summit – Carnero Pass

The 20 mile decent from the pass to civilisation was to be coffee & lunch at the restaurant in La Narita. I was devastated to find it closed & 17 more miles more peddling against a strong wind were required to reach Del Norte.

I located the Hostel, showered & refuelled.

It was great to see Portuguese Divide rider, Joao Lourenco, again. He had pitched his tent next to mine last night. Though we have different paces we do keep crossing paths. I pack lighter & travel faster but have a few more days off so it seems to even out.

It was cold last night, -5C according to Joao’ thermometer. My tent was layered in ice which mostly fell away as I got out.

Coldest night yet

Joao & I said our goodbyes once more before I headed off. A gently 13 miles flat then a 30 mile climb to the Continental Divide at Cochetopa Pass.

Ranch of the Day – captured early on

Pictures during the climb

Higher up on the climb – landscape changes dramatically.

Sign explains the road was build as an important Stage Coach route.

The route is full of canyons where the bad guys can hide out – not hard to imagine how dangerous this route was.

A brief 7 miles of metalled road & civilisation before reentering the Rio Grande wilderness – though landscape has now changed to canyons & rugged landscapes.

Light was failing as I returned to the Rio Grande NP, so pulled off the track & made camp.

The trail was all but empty today. Pulling off Highway 114, for the climb up to Cochetopa Pass, local cyclists, Peter & Laura were setting out on a ride & called me over to their van for a chat & offers of water & food. They even provided there personal contact should I get into difficulty. All very much appreciated & enjoyed the chat.

Another perfect days weather assured & expected to continue.

Audrey, is the young manger at the Salida Hostel & takes good care of everyone, including, each morning bakes cakes for her guests – this mornings treat was blueberry – consumed in minutes – very nice.

Todays ride started with a gentle ride out of Salida before the 20 mile climb up to the Divide at Marshal Pass

Salida has scattering of Pueblo style buildings – a hint that next state is New Mexico

Mears Junction- & onto gravel & the pass.

Just beyond Mears Junction, was a town called Shirley, & sat along the vital trade route over the pass connecting the Arkansas & Gunnison valleys.

From here the route up to the pass follows a Denver & Rio Grand Western Railway & lots of photo opportunities

A few shots of the climb

Marshall Pass

Photos of descent to Sargents

At the end the ride, I came across my first ranch sign in days

Salida is the last place I will visit of any consequence for sometime & reported to be the Dividers favourite stopover so I chose to stop over.

Salida Hostel

It is a very nice city set out to serve the tourist industry. As will as the rafting capital of the Rockies, it is big on cycling (3 bike shops!!), hiking, esp. hiking the 14’ers (peaks above 14,000 ft!! (Check out 14ers.com).

Downtown Salida

Had a concern with one of the crank arms which ended up to be an expensive fix. Needed a beer or two to get over the shock.

Evening was spent chatting to Andrew & other hiker discussing the area & route finding. In USA, people can download maps to their phone for free & with help of an ap, you have everything needed for a good hike. I think the UK. has a lot of catching up to do.

Supporting the Ap, Andrew uses this 1:65,000 series which shows all dirt roads & tracks

It rained last night so very thankful for the cabin. First light, I stuck my head outside to check my surroundings & discovered I was at the edge of a huge basin that stretched for miles, surrounded by mountains & large lake. Every half mile or so, hunting cabins were scattered. No community here, Matt told me. People use them 2 months each year.

By 7am Matt was up & sitting trying to get mobile. A military veteran with war wounds & body stressed beyond its limits & is in need of help. Unfortunately, it would seem, Colorado does not take care of its veterans &, thinking back on David in Whitefish, not that unusual. Also, without health insurance, treatment available is limited waiting time is long.

Matt & Jon are both keen hunters and the area offers them Bears, elk, moose, etc. Today they were after coyotes, a lucrative sport at $50 per pelt.

Jon, Matt & Carrie outside the cabin

Whilst Matt & Jon off to hunt in there full combat regalia, Carrie drove us back to Hartsel for a good breakfast & farewells.

Hartsel Bar/ cafe – place rarely closes

Thanks guys for taking good care of me!!

I’m famous in South Park! – check out the Fairplay Flume newspaper – available on line (allow a couple of weeks). I was riding off when a journalist approached for an interview & picture.

Grazing buffalo / wild landscape for most of the day

Hunting settlement

Today’s road -washboard with soft edges made for slow, uncomfortable & hazardous ride

Lunch spot 25 miles in. complete isolation

Descent to Seleda – in the lush Arkansas valley.

My place for the night is the delightful Salida Hostel.

I was up ready for an early start. When I got to my bike, Colorado racer, Paul, had my bike ready, outside with a big bag of sweets resting on the handlebars Very nice!

Much of today’s ride had a train theme. In 1884, the Denver, South Park & Pacific (DSP&P) opened a narrow gauge railway line To connect Breckenridge to Como providing a link to the outside world.

Breckenridge Station with front of engine with huge snow clearing blades

 

Another engine from the line.

Some shots climbing out of Breckenridge

Bakers Tank – on route to Boreas Pass

View south at Breckenridge Pass

Me at the Pass – notice my lunch strapped to my front fork

Boreas Section House

At this unhealthy altitude Boreas was once a small Town of 140 people. Most building have been lost. The building here housed the line manager & his workers.

Rail lines in the South Park area

Descending to Como

Forrests are replaced with arid landscape

Englishman, David Tomkins at the Como Depot & Eating Hiouse

David, born in Nottinghamshire, purchase this private historic site & looking to reinstate 2 miles of track to run his engine

The Depot & Eating House a Como

First JCB I have ever seen in USA

Racing away from the weather

Looking back towards Como

Shots on route to Hartsel

Arid landscape dotted with isolated hunting cabins & farms.

I had filled my notepad with valuable journey info but had failed to secure it well enough from the washboard roads. Despite backtracking 10 miles, it was gone! Also the 20 miles added to my ride meant arriving at Harsel after dark without accommodation.

Customers of the local saloon, Matt & Carrie Stark pus their young employee, Jon, kindly put a roof over my head at their hunting cabin. Well kitted out with old movies & beer, we sat till the early hours chatting & watching john Wayne in True Grit.

M

The Bivvi Hostel is a great place to chill. Full of hikers & bikers from all over.

Known & advertised as Bivvi. (sign name is different)

Fellow biker, Paul, here to compete in the Colorado mountain bike race, 500 mile single track event where riders typically ride 18-20 hrs a day. Definitely not for me! His job, owner of a Canada taxi company, serving a large native American community – his account is government funded so does pretty well & lots of time to indulge in adventures.

Othes travellers included Transcontinental rideres, a hiker going where he fancies & so far has 5000 miles with no particular destination.

My day was lazy – caught up on my blogs, spoke to home & good chats with Allan & Mick Shaw before exploring the town.

Breckenridge is the oldest Colorado town west of the Continental Divide. In 1859, 30 gold seekers founded the place as a staging ground for prospecting. Within a year it had a post office & has grown to another affluent ski town.

Something to be proud of?

 

The slightly up market Allington hotel offered Miles & I a great deal & the comfort we deserved for our hard ride.

Our day started with a good, long breakfast & a quick ride the town.

I do like this place. It has its own personality &, as mentioned yesterday, is set in the most stunning landscape! Not flash but real. It describes itself as ski & year-round alpine resort. If it is, they keep it very well hidden! Unlike Steamboat, it felt a real blue collar place, broad streets with lots of colourfully painted buildings dating from late 1800’s.

Part 1 of today’s ride was to follow the Blue River upstream 40 miles to Silverthorne.

Williams Fork Reservoir on route to Silverthorne-ver Ty nearly empty

Mount Powell Rsnch – Today’s ranch shot

Typical landscape

At Silverthorne, Miles & me went our separate ways to begin our own adventures.

Silverthorne-A little history

Dillon Reservour Dam at Silverthorne

(carries a main road & cycleway)

This reservour supplies water to Denver & is massive. It also consumes most of the Blue River.

Dillon Reservour

Silverthorne is another ski town made ugly by the I-80 services so followed the purpose cycleway on through Frisco to Breckenridge without stopping.

The Cycleways. Purpose built routes to different towns – exceptional!

Signs just before Beckenridge.

We take the land off the locals, trash it, plan to clean it up & build expensive homes, and feel pretty proud of our efforts.

Failing to consider the obligations to those the land was taken from.

By chance, I happened on the Bivvi Hostel, 1mile south of town – to be my home for the next 2 nights where I can chill & call home & catch up on my blog.

A prefect nights camping, not too cold, no condensation & the tent perfectly pitched to receive the first rays of sunshine. Packed & fed we started for Kremling.

This was the day of steep, long climbs, fast downhills & breathtaking views. On no other day on the ride had we experienced such variety and an introduction to Kremmling’s stunningly rugged landscape.

Home for the night

Rush hour at Lynx Pass

The edge of the first steep descent

The young Colorado River at Radium

We found the store mentioned on the map. Fortunate not to be dependent on it – contents: 2 ice creams, a few energy bars & a dozen bottles of pop!

Information towards the top of the climb out of Radium/Colorado River valley

Amtrak pasenger train passing through Gore Canyon (the valley recently left)

 

Descent to Kremmling

the city is in the middle of the shot surrounded by desert, canyons & mountains one of the most striking & unexpected views I have seen

Farewell Mexican dinner in Kremmling

The last time we would be together. Dusty travelled on towards Silverthorne later that night to meet up with his wife & week’s break.

Tomorrow, after arriving at Silverthorne, Miles leaves for a wedding in Utah. These guys have been great company. See you guys in the UK!