Breakfast at the Silver Saddle & used their wifi to upload yesterday’s blog. The 2 movies I included made for a lengthy process. I finally said goodbye to Randy & picked up the gravel road at the edge of town, south along Basin Creek to check out some gold claims.

Today’s ride was tough. The 2400 climb up to the Continental Divide crossing should have been relatively easy but a strong headwind made even the downhills hard work. Also yesterday’s sunny 25C was, today, replaced with cold & sometimes rainy.

Still working on taking a good picture of my bike

Sadly When the Gold Digging Stops – The Mess Remains

Today, I passed many rivers that had been mined & left in this sorry state. Not quite sure why – maybe considered of national importance or nobody cares enough?

Finally I got to Butte, but too late in the day to go further.

Butte has more people that Helena 34,000 & at 5,538 ft is about 2,000 ft high & therefore colder! Like many parts of the Montana, Its existence is through mining. In its hay day it was known as the richest hill on earth & was the largest city west of the Mississippi. Today it’s paying the price. The grand old houses & town buildings show a wealthy past. Some are kept well maintained, many are not. Also they are greatly outnumbered by far more modest houses & prefabs. The city is encircled by large working mines, mineral processing plants and polluted lake. For me it’s a place to pass through without exploring further.

Also, since Banff, Dividers have warned of Butte’s reputation for cycle thefts. Separating myself from my bike, locked or not, was too higher risk. Instead, I headed for the intersection of I-90 & I-15 & found myself budget hotel & kept my bike in my room – on 3rd floor!

Basin is small, 200 people; & high, 5,364 ft- so takes a while for the day to warm up. Last night Randy informed me that Jefferson County Fair was taking place in nearby Boulder. It would be like Shrewsbury Flower Show but with more pizzaz plus a rodeo. So I’d be stopping over. Randy dive me there & I would cycle back later on.

My morning was spent walking Basin’s Creek Road & it’s offshoots, absorbing the place. Even from the road, mines, kilns & dilapidated shells of buildings were visible, In the background, the hum of the I-15.

Basin – Main Road & 19th C Building with False Top Floor

USA are preparing for mid-term elections & Randy is actively supporting local democrat Bryer Herak. During the drive to Boulder, I agreed to help. My job – to walk next to the float handing out promotion stickers & sweets. It was great fun though had to keep explaining why an Englishman was in this remote place promoting Herak for Jefferson County. I’m pretty sure I was a hit & remembered as the Brit who flew over for the event. Republican float could not match that!

Our Float

Before entering the rodeo, I wandered the fair, listened to the Night Crawlers at the Gazebo (bandstand)

25c Ride for kids of all ages

The Rodeo starting ceremony was quite something. The brightly dressed Rambling Rose riders entered & trotted round the ring each – carrying the national flag whilst the compare delighting the audience with a speech as to why this beloved Montana is the very best state in the Union. Then John Wayne’s rendition -Why I Love Her (America) – check it out!! A standing ovation was given to all who had served in the armed forces ending with a beautifully sung National Anthem. The whole time, the audience loved every part and not many dry eyes!

For the next two hours I watched cattle lassoing, 16 stone men fall off horses, men & women racing around barrels against the clock. All good fun. I left before the end, exhausted by the day & I still had a 19 mile cycle, uphill back to Basin.

Hey Barrie, except for the cycle part, I think this day would have been just up your street!

Though Helena is a sprawling city spread over many square miles, the attractive downtown part is small (similar size to Newcastle-under-Lyme or Rugby). Beyond are a mass of streets mixed with churches, dwellings & small businesses serving your every need: finance, feet, personal wellbeing & fulfilment, shooting lessons, finding God or your perfect home, etc. Interestingly-didn’t come across any travel agents. Could be because Montanans believe this to be the best place on earth. Quiet & community focused with & sense of freedom you don’t get many other places. Not forgetting, hiking, biking, fishing, skiing, snowmobiling – all here, just outside their door!

The existence of Helena is very recent (1864) so locals have a huge interest in their local history, especially pre 1900. Even the city graveyard is a National Monument since it’s where many of the gold-rush miners ended up – Poor sods! Probably dying from hunger or the cold.

The ride out passed by Helena’s oldest building, a simple cabin 1864, & beyond that a quaint street built shortly afterwards.

The tv news last night reported on a bear attacking someone on the Divide route, further north. Luckily, people were close by & came to the rescue. The person survived but not without injury. So heading out today on a dirt road called Grizzly Gulch made me a little more vigilant. 12 miles on & the route was closed due to land slippage so had need to take the “Boulder Alternate” which worked out to be fine. Cycling in Montana will never disappoint – it just gets better & better so took a few pics.

Pioneers Cabin & info

I arrived at Basin MT at 8pm & located Sandra (Randy) a sprightly 81 year old lady who owns a cycle lodge.

Tired from my ride, Randy took exceptional care of me – we even drove to high point to watch the moon rise through the trees & up over the mountains. Only in Montana!

To sleep in the best cabin came with obligations. I was to provide pancakes & coffee for everyone. Invites were 7:30 for 8am. We all mucked in & dined alfresco on the patio at a pleasant 20C.

Diners included Sebastian Voorhees, Tom Grundy & Geolyn Carvin – who had just written a book “On The Trail with Boots McFarland – vol1” & was to fund her extravagant bike, Salsa Fargo Ti.  She has a sharp mind & sense of fun, so I reckon it will be a good read. Because of the recurring theme of forever bumping into each Other along the trail, breakfast was chatty & familiar.

On leaving, I called by on my hosts to for a final thanks. Immediately John whisked me in for coffee & discussions on politics & how Artificial Intelligence will certainly make man (& woman) redundant!!

Helena, being the capital of Montana, was worth spending a little time so selected a shorter, 30 mile route which included a mix of gravel & metalled road, with ETA of 3:pm. It would also avoid a serious climb.

This ride was as spectacular as ever. Real, working ranches (not dude ranches), landscapes & mountains that seem to go on forever. Also, for almost 15 miles, the wind was with me so felt like I was being carried along on a conveyor belt at no effort.

To arrive in a city the size of Helena with my bear spray & bear bell still ringing seemed very odd & out of place.   With MT having so much space, the suburbs stretch for miles with even the most modest dwellings occupying large plots of land. The city centre (old part) was smart but small & unimpressive but had enough bike shops to make any cyclist very happy.

Again I came across Mark, Nic, Geolyn & Tom. We still keep saying goodbye knowing now, it’s unlikely to be for very long!

The boys & I were up at 6am & sat in the nearby diner for 7am – bikes packed ready. But today I was struggling. Last night’s calorie load & another night without sleep had left me pretty rough & definitely was not ready for more food!

Wheel Inn – tent on RHS provided free accommodation

I let the guys set off without me. The owner of the Wheel Inn (where we had camped) had mentioned a bikers lodge, 22 miles on – 7 miles after the Continental Divide crossing so set this as my goal.

The 3,500 ft climb to the crossing felt tough & was very glad of the downhill – even better when I arrived at the Cycle (Lama) lodge owned by Barbra Nye & partner, John Keller. My home for the night – a quaint chalet-vey small but had absolutely everything. Warm bed, stove, food, porch, patio, etc. & set in an amazing landscape.

All offered without payment but on trust that guests will provide similar support to others – check out “Warm Showers”. Website. For my hosts it was “ 4 acres of acres of kindness in a world they otherwise can’t control”. Though this place has no name, it is often referred to as the lama ranch ( they have two).

Barbra, John & my bike

The rest of the day was spent chatting to John & other guests well into the evening. As I headed for my warm bed, I concluded that shaky start, had worked out very nicely thanks to the kindness of others.

Alarm at 6am, coffee at 7am. Today is all about the ride.

Nic, Mark & I rode out onto the tracks at 7:20 am & stayed together for first 5 miles then stretch time. Though our destination was the same, Lincoln, our pace wasn’t, so I sat back and watched them disappear up through the forest on Cottonwood Lakes dirt road. Once out of site, I set off at my own pace. To load up the calories for today’s ride, both had eaten themselves stupid the night before. I had tried to do the same which did not help with sleep. However it must have worked. By the day’s end, I had completed the 70 miles off-road ride/4500 ft climbs, and still had a few miles left in my legs.

A small mishap on the fast downhill section leading to Ovando. My mobile phone & note pad fell from my handlebar pouch. I finally recovered it 2.5 miles back. A bloody nuisance but ever so thankful.

Just before the town of Ovando, the forest is suddenly left behind and is replaced by ranch/prairie county – just like that. Ever so strange.

I stopped for lunch at Ovando a tiny, beautiful town set in a dip in the middle of a large plane.

Lunch & a call home at Ovando

Here, I was told, they welcome bikers & provide free covered camping & coffee- though I paid 2 bucks for mine!

After many miles of vast open scapes, the ride reentered the forest for a major climb up from 4000 to 7000 ft & finally dropped into back down to another plain & Lincoln at 8pm. The lads flagged me down & gave me a great welcome. A local bar had a large tent set up for bikers & allows use of toilet – so here we camped. I loaded with food then to my bag & sleep. There are many more miles & climbs waiting tomorrow!

The ride today had everything – classic Montana. Wild forests & wastelands, wetlands, remote homesteads & ranches, huge vistas, even a grizzly at close quarters just beyond Ovando. I was told it to be one of a couple that visits town looking for food & worrying locals!

The luxury of a warm, dry bed & my very own bathroom – very nice.

Raining today so to the Chicken Coup Cafe and waited in vain for it to stop. Helpful Darlene Allen advised me on breakfast – must try the gizzards – at a grand old age, she had had them since knee high -though was not fully sure what they are! We got chatting.

More Montana area burnt last year since 1910 she tells me – & the record is set to be beaten this year – all 56 counties in MT are now on fire alert. That’s like the whole of UK! She bought up her family in the town of Pony, MT at the foot of Ollie Mountain, Pony being named after a miner Tecumsa Smith, who was very tall but rode on a tiny horse – so he became known as Pony Smith. At its peak, the town was 10,000 at max but sat at the end wagon trail road. Though the town is now classed as ghost town, there is a resurgence – the folks who left, missed the community so much that they meet each year through the Pony Homecoming Club.

Mark & Nicholas joined me in the waiting. As the day passed I was introduced to Instagram, ideas for new rides & biking kit. Plus Lots of coffee.

5 pm and deciding to remain here, made to room share at the motel. With health conscious friends & microwave in room, we ate well & plenty, had a few beers & planned for an early start.

The campground at the Swan Lake Trading Post was great. Hot showers, endless free coffee & reasonable $7 breakfast. My decision today was to ride the Swan Valley road to Seeley Lake about 60 miles on – since smoke completely masked the mountains & air quality was reported to be poor.

Fortunately, the road was not busy & the ride pleasant with lots of odd sights & deer to entertain me.

5 miles before Condon, set back along a gravel road, off to my right sat a small, pristine, white church which I discovered to be part of an idilic small community of 10 or so homesteads.

Elizabeth & Synthia Swan Valley Baptist Church

Before leaving, Elizabeth had roped me up with water & introduced me to the congregation.

In Cordon, the Swan Valley Museum, attended by two lovely ladies, Pat & Barb. Both passionate about the history of the Swan Valley area – which is surprisingly recent. Well into the 20th century, life was truly Wild West. Indian massacre (1908), trappers cabins, remote homesteads, 1st basic school houses1927, 1st bar 1940’s, Swan valley road 1959, etc. Therefore, for many people still living the valley’s history is their own, the pioneers who saw the land change from true wilderness To what it is today and that fascinates me.

Pat & Barb

The Fist bar in Seeley Valley (1940’s)

Arriving in Seeley Lake I met up again with Mark Hilary & had a very pleasant evening nattering before retiring. Tonight I am sleeping in a real bed & it’s pretty good!!

At 7:30 am, Brian, busy as ever, was already up & cooking pancakes & eggs for the kids & me as I entered the kitchen. Soon as I was able, I left them all to their busy day. Thanks Brian & Alisha. It was my pleasure to spend time with you all!

The local gas station had good coffee & wi-fi so here, for a few hours or more, I updated my blog, enjoyed a second breakfast & Skyping home. Very pleasant but unproductive.

Long distance rider, Mark Hilary from Windermere BC, & his recently acquired companion, pulled me away from the comfort of the store & we rode together for a while.

Mark, dwarfing his Extra Large Ti Salsa Fargo.

At 26, Mark was the size & build of Usain Bolt & rode well above my capability. I pushed him to carry on as we began the 6 mile / 1,600ft climb. His story – a free lance paramedic/ski-instructor/ hiking guide gave him a busy life but had wangled a 5 month cycle adventure with 5000+ miles already in his legs.

My lighter load was making the climb “enjoyable ” when, halfway up, a patrol officer in a pickup pulled over & asked if I was aware & prepared for the high population of grizzly bears. I confirmed I was. Adventure Cycling had sent out a warning &, last night, also, Brian had told me last night of his recent encounter – a mother grizzly had taught her cubs to raid his garden chicken coupe – all ended badly – both for the chickens & the bears!

The officer told me he was special forces criminal Investigator but, due to fire risk set at “Extreme” he & others had been seconded.

Swan Lake / Population 113

Dwelling on the bear situation & my late start, I elected for a short ride day & a $16 camp at Swan Lake. The name sounded idilic so why not?

Cricket dropped me off in town for the last time & it was sad to say goodbye. I leave her free of most redundant/unnecessary belongings & cured of my fetish for small, meaningless bags. I feel liberated & organised. For the first time since Banff, I knew where everything was & packed in order of need!

So, for now: bike good, packing good, rider – work in progress.

Today, I met a Divide rider looking for company but I needed to enjoy the ride alone – to go at my own pace. Temperature was pleasantly warm, the route was gently undulating & scenery was fabulous, big, open Montana.

By early evening I was at the outskirts of Bigfork, nr Ferndale, when Brian Leskyinski called from his garden to ask if I was riding the Divide plus offers of help. Telling him I’d heard of a nearby bar & camping he offered me his caravan, beer & a hot shower. Unbelievable! That evening & following morning I got to know him, his wife, Alisha, & adorable kids – Raelynn (6), Brixan(4) & Marin(2).

Photographer – Raelynn – aged 6

Next day, before leaving, Raelynn handed me a paper heart – I just may take this one home!

A delightful, very hardworking family. Brian is a chef in Whitefish & Alisha a waitress but have managed self-build / renovate two large properties & are looking to exploit their location as a cycle hostel. I am pretty sure they will succeed.