Significant preparations were needed before heading on so decided to stick around another day. Cricket dropped me in town – I missed the 9:30am shuttle saying final goodbye’s to David. Glacier Cyclery checked out my bike for a few $’whilst I returned to Swift Creek Cafe for breakfast & work stuff. I love this friendly place – & so does everyone else! Nevertheless the owner is content to allow me to do my thing whilst Christina keeps me supplied with endless coffee.

Yesterday’s intense packing review left me with 17lb to ship to Pittsburgh c/o John Weckoski (thanks), a few small purchases plus tasty trail food. Being Greyhound night back home I called bro Allan & Christine – too late for my other pub buddies – sorry for that! Must do better next week.

My evening was spent fitting my new bags, refining my packing & chatting to Cricket.

I learnt that she raced the Divide in 2008, 09, 10, 11 & actually won the women’s in 2010. She had only come to the area to live with here two sons around 2012 – though she knew this is where she wanted to be, she had no place to live & didn’t know anyone. What she has created for the local community and for people like me, in such a short time-is incredible. Every Divide rider should visit her retreat &, if very lucky, to chat a while  – they will most certainly come away a better person.

Thank you Cricket!!!

Whitefish Campground is set right against Whitefish Lake, in idealic surroundings, equipped with bear boxes, charging points, covered tables, etc. & is only $10 / night, it is also right next to the main train line & freight runs 24×7. Surprisingly, yesterday’s exhausting ride enabled some sleep to be had. Gorka went for breakfast at the Swift Creak Cafe where we swapped blogs & parted. For me, today was the Whitefish Bike Retreat – 7 miles out of town. To me, this place has become my Mecca. It can’t disappoint!

Arrived at the entrance to the retreat around 2pm as a pickup drew along side me- it was Cricket, shouting out- YOU MADE IT! It was great to see a familiar face in surroundings so different than the remote Tobermory Cabin. Allowing an hour for a beer & a shower, she would join me for the long awaited kit review.

Phase 1: Equipment

Item by item, Cricket went through absolutely everything – including my dirty washing & underwear. Each removed item was discussed, analysed, assessed for suitability & duplication/multi-use before placing it on the keep or discard pile. Partway through this exercise, David Sorrentino, (another formidable packer) joined the exercise, & was more ruthless than Cricket. Finally, 2.5 hrs later – phase one was complete!! 17lb’s of kit was set aside to be shipped back including-spare riding tops, camera (+batteries, mains charger), cooking stove, fuel, bulky trail meals, heavy tool kits, bulky first aid kits, water filter, spare straps, rucksack, etc. – All gone!!!

Absolute essential keeps: duck-tape, inner tube, water purification (iodine or bleach), food & warmth, anti-friction ( ideally Astroglide!). Regarding my first aid kit, David (ex military) declared that there was absolutely nothing that was going to save my life – a tourniquet from a sock/inner-tube plus duck-tape will always be my best option.

Cricket, David & Me with the Discarded Kit

Phase 2 : Packing

Chosen way – camping equipment in seat pack, clothes in bar bag & food in frame bag.

My Blackburn frame had been heavy unreliable-unable to handle serious off road riding – so was ditched & replaced with Oveja Negra harness. Simple & robust.

David & I sat talking bikes, packing & trail food till late evening before hitting the “sack” totally exhausted.

David has an inspirational story. His spine was so  badly damaged in active service that he should not be even walking! He was retired from the military but failed to receive the compensation he deserved for 2 years. Instead of hanging on, he convalesced himself, got himself a bike for the first time in his life & today, he has just completed a 5,500 mile off-road ride He is one of the most driven people you could ever meet & a great guy to boot!

Bloody cold night at Tuchuck. The 8 or so campers were all parading around puffed up with multi-layers of clothing & topped with fleeces. During the night, when Alex was layering up, several grizzlies wander throttle the camp. Ignorance is bliss!!

My Camp at Tuchuck

Today would be a long ride. Intended ride was to bike through Flathead National Forrest to finish at the top of the pass Red Meadow campground. However, my early start & obsession to get to the bike retreat drove me on to do 61 miles – climbs over 3,000 ft in temperatures reaching 42 C.  I finally arriving at Whitefish town for 8:00 pm. Saw one black bear on the road a few miles out of town that ran off as soon as he heard me coming.

Forrest Fire on North Fork Road

People here live absolutely in the the middle of nowhere!

My hope for a nice warm bed at the Whitefish hostel was dashed – they would be full for next 7 day. Wandering the town for an alternative, I met up with fellow cyclist, Gorka Hoyas Larruzea, 40 years old, recently divorced, from Bilbao, in the Bask country (Not Spain!!).

Gorka Hoyas Larruzea, Road cycling from Anchorage AK to Ushuaia Argentina

Gorka’s journey: Road cycling from Anchorage AK to Ushuaia Argentina is on a budget of $10/day. ETA Sep’19! His Camp was a very tiring 4 miles out of town.  My tent was  pitched in the dark before chilling with beers on promise of buying breakfast next day.

Up & ready for 8:00 am, Daniel was in the kitchen with coffee making plans. Here’s the deal, he said. I have bacon, egged etc but we have to cook them. Alternatively we can head back to Mad Jack’s for a 3 for $5 breakfast. The answer was clearly in his question so back we went. Daniel, generous, but always looking for a deal, whatever the prize, winning is everything- absolutely hates losing – over breakfast, he even managed to close a deal with the waitress on one extra piece of bacon!

Wilderness- descending the top of the pass- Avalanche impact.

These next few days would be about the ride. According to my book, it’s 3 days in the Flathead wilderness , camping 1st at Tuchuck campground then at Red Meadow campground. Today’s ride carried me along Tobacco Valley in which Eureka sits, through a few remote settlements tucked away in the woods before a hot days climb up to Whitefish Divide at 5,300 ft before a fast downhill to Tuchuck Campground.

 

For the middle of absolutely nowhere this camp was the most impressive – toilets, bear boxes & all. Water came from a fresh mountain steam a few metres away. Alex Grant pulled in shortly after, riding the Divide on his customised BMW.

Alex & his customised BMW f809 AS Adventurer Ki

The motorbike route usually followed a different path but shares here. His trip was shorter in days (for him day 1 out of Banff) but the planning needed was equal to mine, fuel, self sufficiency in case of breakdown or damage, ripped tyres, etc.

Alex is an aircraft engineer & nice to know that thinks GE makes the best engines!

10% though already! And the adventure continues.

My day started with sharing a coffee at the Elko store owners Jack & Jim. Both grew up here in Elko moved away but were drawn back by its beauty & strong community. They remember the times back when the lands south of here was prairie wilderness with an abundance of wildlife – fires naturally replenished the land every 7 years or so keeking things in balance. In the last 40 years, man’s intervention in controlling fires to protect property has created the parent huge fire issue. All man made & nothing to do with climate change.

Meanwhile Jack believes the area is in the middle of the 3rd occupation. First the native Indians, then Europeans & today, a influx of people from everywhere.

Today you can smell & taste the smoke – fires feel really close & the main topic of local conversation. Jim directed me to Hwy since my route along the GDMBR to the US border was not fully open Both share the responsibility of managing the motel, shop, gas station, campsite, etc,, and gas filled their lives, they have rarely travel. But since they both hunt, fish & enjoy the wilderness, they see no reason to. That I do understand!!

jack believed the area is experiencing. first the native Americans, when the Europeans, & now it is outsiders with their cosmopolitan ways. Not for the better.

I’ve ridded worse highways that Hey93. Stunning views

Plumber with a sense of hummer

Arriving at US border at Rooseville where insisted that the valid entry date for my ESTA was when I entered Pittsburgh, 30 July & not today, 12 August. Since my ticket home was for 3Nov, I needed to reschedule my flight there and then before going any further. The logic enforced remind questionable, especially since ESTAs allow multi entry.

The delay at the border had me arrived in the town of Eureka early evening. Having ridden past miles of ugly billboards since entering Montana, this place was a very pleasant surprise.

I stopped at Mad Jack’s burger bar To treat myself to a few Deadman Irish beers & a burger special. Daniel Beltram entered alone soon after so invited him to join me.

We could lots to talk about & discovered him to be a very interesting & inspiring individual. Shaped by his fathers religion, Victorian discipline, & work ethics, he took his dads humble knife sharpening business into a multi-million $$ enterprise – covering manufacturing, construction, restaurant outfitters & much more. Up on a business trip from his Tamper home, but had a place nearby. After his wife checked me out over the phone, he invited me to stay over. My sincere thanks Daniel!!

At $35 THE Ranging Elk was great deal & very pleasant. Of the 3 young ladies sharing the dorm, one failed the challenge & vacated soon after midnight! Nothing personal I hope?

Recovered my bike for Bryan & Mary’s chalet where an ice pack was waiting, then goodbyes & off. Touch call not to stay over another day & take in more of the festival & a little more time with them both. With my weekend pass & Shred Kelly jamming in the park @ 10am it was a tough call. Breakfast at the Mug Shot fell well short of Jennifer’s at Elkford.

It felt good be be biking again. Today, I continue south down the Elk River Trail. Out of Fernie it was on purpose built switch back trails designed for fun & not to take you anywhere in particular – not apropriafor those who need to press on. The route finally connected with a track called Havel Avenue that took me all the way to Elko.

From the highway Elko is a small & insignificant place – a plain store, gas & campground. but is a ploy to keep strangers out. Just off the highway, the village proper is above a sweeping bend in the Elk River & surrounded by the Rickie Mountain s in every direction. Also fishing to die for – just mind the grizzlie

.View from Elko village green

On route, I came across downhill biker, Mike White, who was back country camping for the weekend. He greeted me the a can of ice tea from his icebox & chatted whilst Judas Priest banged out from the pickups stereo. Originally from Newfoundland, where fishing was once king, due to the changing fortunes he had need to move & came to be here & in the oil industry.

At the end of the day Nate Dorr from Montana for weekends fishing. Had tried living in Miami but hated it so is bringing his family back where he belongs.

While chatting, we had a few uninvited visitors.

As size of places go in these parts, Fernie is big (5000 people) & real old ( 1898).

2nd Avenue is where it happens “historic” & posh with boutiques & bike shops and all.

Also since 1908, Fernie was built to be fireproof- from the forest fire smoke filling the air right now, it could be about to be put to the test!

Information Centre told me the town is often used as film set -Hot Tub, Time Machine, & ‘Santa Paws 2: The Santa Pups. They also had on show, some wildlife of the Upper Elk. Check out this teeth on this grey wolf.

The Fernie Music Festival Starts today, biggest event of the year around these parts so accommodation is sparse & the Snow Valley Motel had me checked out on Friday morning. In the process I bumped into Mary & Bryan Murphy who kindly offered to keep my bike safe until I leave Fernie. They also got me interested in a top Canadian group(from Fernie) Shred Kelly, performing tonight – & told me about free entry for those 65+ (tickets are $70) how good is that!

Spent the day restfully wandering the old town, searching out shade & checking in with family. Despite the nice shops & air-conditioned supermarkets, you can’t get away from knowing that within a couple of miles there will be bears, elk& other beasts.

From 5 pm onward i spent the evening with Bryan & Mary. First to Fernie Golf Club where for near traditional roast dinner (including Yorkshire pud) chatted on Politics & how the norms seem to be tested; swapped notes on previous travels & their home in Tamper, FL. Despite the floods & damage caused by hurricanes, they still feel privileged to live in such a place.

They told me of their love of this corner of BC & could name all the mountains & their legions. The most famous being Ghosted Rider Mountain. The story goes, a young lady lost the love of a prospector & killed herself this manifests itself in the form of the mountain.

Finally onward to the concert to see Shred Kelly were excellent check them out!! http://www.shredkelly.com.

My bed was to be at the Raging Elk hostel in a mixed room so will be an interesting first!

Slow start today. On leaving Elkford, the sky was noticeably smokey from the many fires not too far south in BC & US. It was also to be another hot, one at 36 C – making riding a challenge, 1 litre every 7 miles still left me dehydrated. But was able to make Fernie still in the Elk Valley, by early evening. Hard to comprehend that bustling Fernie sits in the same Valley as the Tobermory Hut – worlds apart.

My day started at the Racetrack Gas Station. Thank you Jenifer for the friendly chat & for the magnificent breakfast – Campfire Skillet (hash browns, ham, bacon, scrambled eggs onions, mushrooms, garlic sausage, etc), cooked to perfection & endless coffee.

Hi Tristyne, lady fabricator welder at Ryco Steel Ltd.

I did say you would be in todays blog! For those who don’t know my past, this was the job my mother picked out for me back in 1968. Today,nothing has really changed in Canada but they do do things a little bigger-take a look at the trucks they drive!!

(Can you see me with bike by front wheel?)

In Sparwood, patriotic Canadian, Greg Thurston, has the Queen as his adopted grandmother & made clear that riding the Divide is totally insane but is keen to follow my blog. Greg – let me know if you change your mind!

Finally my Fernie, bikers, Terry, Will and Ryan from Calgary.

An evening with beers, banter & pizza with guys such as these is something I have not done for too many years. Thanks guys! Bikes are awesome. Deal reach with Will is that who ever goes first gets the others bike so will be watching very closely!! If Will gets mine he will need to figure out where to put the engine. He does not do peddling.

Trying the bike for size just in case!

Last night was a very interesting! Around 4am the cabin began vibrating as extremely heavy footsteps could be heard on the cabin porch. Lasted about 5 mins then stopped. God knows what it was, I’m guessed it to be a grizzly or a moose but was not going to find out.

Set my alarm for 6:30 am this morning. The sun was just about up, the sky cloudless & the mountain peaks glowing pink – quite spectacular.

With swollen Knee, I packed my bike & at 7:30 head off to Elkford. 36 miles on I came across divide rider Bret, (S >N). 6 weeks in & traveling incredibly light – I now know this to be an essential art to be mastered in Whitefish.

My luck continues, Bret was a nurse and advised on treatment & handed me an anti inflammatory tablet which definitely helped.

Todays route is along one road down the Elk Valley down to Elkford & first real civilisation after Banff.

Fist sign of Civilisation @ Elkford

First stop was beer at the only bar then on to Hi Rock Inn, owner, a 75 rear old Korean, Jay runs this place near single handed due to local mining paying so well. His work includes building & repairs and manning reception – being a little deaf means calling to book a room is not always successful. Nevertheless, Jay keeps a great place & viewing both accommodations, is the best in town!

Jay left Korea to find his fortune in Canada when a young man, as a qualified marine engineer. He quickly discovered welding Paid 4x more so that’s what he did until 60. He’s quite a man, still sharp & fit and an inspiration to those of us on the right side of 70!

Today was very pleasant. Ideal weather for sitting out with a good book – the Alchemist’s Secret ( a great choice Christine).

Sorry but I do like this cabin

Also, a couple of visitors stopped by.

First Ranger Rick – on fire patrol who ironically gave me matches to replace those lost on yesterday’s downhill being trusted to use them wisely.

Later, two cyclists came by, Cricket Butler (lady) & gent, sorry that name I can’t recall. They gracefully declined my offer of afternoon tea.

I leaned that Cricket is a veteran GDMBR racer and enthusiastic to help fellow bikers. Something I still need hep with. She has the Whitefish Bike Retreat in Montana, on route, & invited call by to help me out. Check out the site. http://www.whitefishbikeretreat.com.

For now, I look forward waking with an improved knee, the ride to Elkford & calling in to folks back home.