Last night it hammered down & my very small tent sagged under the weight.

Swan Falls is a spread out along the Snake River & is real cowboy country – it is also set in stunning surroundings. Half the men in bar last night were tough looking ranchers, spurs, broad hats & probably packed a gun (most do around here). And then there were those like me, passing through. The coming together of the two different worlds, oddly mingling together worked very well. At 10pm the barman decided it was time for music & Jonnie Cash boomed out until well after midnight.

Was not in good health this morning so set of much later than planned. The ride to Jackson was 65 miles up Sake River. I had intended to arrive at 5pm but was looking to be 8pm. 25miles in, Bomber text to check my eta & arranged to come out & pick me up. We met up at Alpine, around half way and was a fantastic reunion.

The fantastic Snake River comes out of 10 Pipes a the foot of a Hydroelectric Dam

The 2nd part of my journey was therefore an effortless ride in an AC truck, rehydrating with a litre of Dr Pepper.

Spent the rest of the day catching up news & sharing the frustrations of each others politics.

Took me a good hour to ride out of the city, through the affluent suburbs with its mansions & green parks. People here love their lawns & they empty the rivers & creeks in the process. Sprinklers are everywhere, sweeping acres of grounds & road verges, even into the road to soak passing cyclists. Without sprinklers, the place would be desert & may one day be again if/when the water runs out. Back at Challis, George Dangelo told me that water abstraction was causing many creeks to dry out & feeble attempts to reverse the situation included running the irrigation canals in pipes underground to reduce loss due to evaporation.

Instead of taking the busy scenic highway, I travelled to Swan Valley over a high semi arid landscape, along dirt roads, through wind farms & deserted ranches & down Falls Creek. Slightly longer & tougher than the highway but was satisfied with my choice.

Failed Ranches are common place My Well Earned Descent

On the road, dead snakes are common. I was advised to wedge something in my spokes to make a noise & scare them off but have resisted this so far.

Over the past few days I have trialled the Garmin route course mileage against the actual miles travelled. On each occasion the Garmin understated the mileage by 20% or more. Which is not good & plan to enquire reason why?

Twice in two days riding, a local has pulled over to ask if I wanted a lift to town. Today, the fellow who stopped, told me that, in the years he’d travelled this gravel road, he’d never seen a cyclist here. Surprised since, I discovered the highway to be busy & a little dangerous.

On arrival, Sake Rive Roadhouse had a camp spot, great food & beer & Pauline took very good care of me there.

Last night I treated myself to a room at Motel West. I had biked 100miles, in temps up to 95, I arrived late, & was wacked.

This morning, I shared a breakfast table with a fellow who lectures on building efficiency at Boston University. With my dabbles into domestic property & energy efficiency, & his keenness to know more of UK building solutions, we spent a good hour exchanging information & I came away smarter for it.

With Jackson only 100miles away & expected on Sunday, I decided to stick around Idaho Falls, do some work, explore & relax.

The city is huge for these parts, pop. 61,000 & relatively low altitude 4,100ft. It sits on the Snake River, the one I’ll be following up tomorrow. The main, if not the only worthy feature of the place is the falls themselves. They are stunning &, with better town planning, could have been exploited far better than the narrow strip of green park given on either side of the river.

The Falls

“Historic” Downtown from what I saw, included buildings from early 1900’s on & are typical of the period but of little architectural merit. Also, the area is in decline & many premises standing empty. The action now is all along the brassy, ugly thoroughfares.

Early evening, I returned to my nice ac’d motel room, read my book, had a nice cup of English Breakfast tea with real milk & with the knowledge of a night in a comfortable bed – that’s what I call living!!

Mackay is a town in decline. Population has halved since 2008 & now stands at only 320.

Bars & restaurants are plentiful but empty & close early. Only places with life are the the RV Park & the two gas stations.

Last night, l had called at a bar & was quizzed on my presence in this small town. When I told them they asked –

“ Why the hell you want to peddle though the two hottest states in the US in the two hottest months of the year?“

The sane question I had been asking myself. It was already a struggle with 90F – 100F+ a big worry. I need to start to consider alternative routes.

The morning ride to Arco was 27 miles & pleasant, temperature had still to climb.

Arco – hill in background is littered with dates. It claims to be the first town in the world powered by nuclear energy.

Had lunch & stocked with water for my ride through the desert. Increased from 3 to 5 litres. Next opportunity would not be until Idaho Falls, 70 miles on.

Route was straight & gradually climbed past two large buttes, through the 900 square miles of the International Nuclear Laboratory. The highest point was reached 49 miles in at Summit Mask.

I like the word summit – it tells me there is a downhill coming! By 9 pm I had arrived at Idaho Springs.

Travelling through the desert was OK, though got caught in a thermal that shook my bike around a bit.

Early start but stuff to do.

Downtown Challis

Left John’s 10:30 am & headed for the Tea Pot Cafe for my 2nd breakfast, then continuing to follow the Salmon River up, and south.

Wind, temperature & climb were less kind today – made getting to Willow Creek’s 7160 ft summit an effort.

My reward was a much needed fast downhill & overall, a ride through this amazing remote, high land desert landscape

Water intake on the 50 mile trail was a massive 7 litres but was still dehydrated

Tonight, I made contact with Jackson friends, Bomber & Amy. Plan is to start detouring there tomorrow with ETA Sunday – traveling through Idaho Falls & up the Snake River. There is no easy way to get there – this is the longer, easier route. Really looking forward to the visit!

Salmon Town

I finally left Salmon at 12 noon, taking the route south up the Salmon River.

This was a very pleasant ride through canyons that occasionally widen to creat space for small farms. The route continued for 60 miles to the small town Challis.

My host was John Dangelo – along with a couple, Nickie & Greg, we were to be his very first warm showers guests. John is slightly older and big on renewable energy so had much in common. He sells domestic systems all over the world – all from his 10x10ft office.

After introductions & a brief chat, we headed out to be introduced to John’s son, George, 4 miles out of town to discover he too had inherited the same passion & playing his part in conserving the local environment.

North Fork declares itself to be a village but is gas station with store & small diner.

Still they had WiFi so good to do some work.

Still rehydrating from yesterday’s ride. Today’s plan was to ride up along the Salmon River to the town of Salmon, 22 miles on.

Lovely ride, & with the wind at my back, peddling effort was at a minimum. Acomplete contrast to yesterday’s ride. I failed to mention, in the mountains, that there are a plethora of insects waiting to attack as soon as you slow up or stop – especially the flies! Insect repellent appears to be useless. My legs & arms are proof of that! Down in the valley this is not a problem. So not a bad day at all really!

Salmon is a real town, self contained & sitting on the river at least 65 miles from its neighbour. As expected, lots of bars & food places, hospital, tractors repairs and a few trinket shops for those heading north to the river’s canyons ridden yesterday.

Tonight I treated myself to a beer & dinner at the popular Junk Yard Restaurant. Great food but the proverbial one hours wait around these parts.

For most of my day, I continued to follow the North Fork of the Bitterroot River. The climb up to Horse Creek Pass was not the top.

The climb – most of the way though burnt forests

The route to Idaho includes a series of passes. The 95F temp & the 4000ft climb, was very tough indeed.

Horse Creek Pass

The 5000 ft drop to Salmon River was incredibly quick & suddenly amongst people & water!!

Salmon River Valley

Salmon River, I am guessing takes its name from the pink coloured rock cliffs. What a contrast to the stark landscape of the high mountains.

Up & packed for 8:00 am.

Sally served up a cup of freshly ground coffee before leaving – twice. Their pup had a thing about following me.

Sally was a MT lady, called herself a redneck but nothing like that really. Very resourceful. Prior to doing her own thing, she had a decorating business – clients included the Antarctic Research Bases – including the South Pole!! First person I have ever met whose been there!!

Rick was an out & out Kansas cowboy, spoke & dresses the part. He’s also a reluctant Trump supporter due to economy doing so well since he came to office.

I rode the Old Darby Road to Darby – slightly elevated & undulating but stunning & recommended.

Darby let me down! I was hoping for a cooked breakfast at the Darby Cafe. I waited 15 mins to be told I’d have to wait at least 45 mins. Not impressed, I cancelled my order & headed out.

At Connor, 5 miles on, I found a great little hideaway cafe at west Fork Gallery, Connor, by Bitterroot River West Fork, just after the turn off. Here I sat, longer than I should, sipping coffee, eating my breakfast wrap any watching fly fishermen being rowed down river.

The day’s ride continued up this valley, past many ranches, shacks & mansions, past Painter Rocks Lake, a huge reservoir with lots of leisure boats, jet skies – very strange sight. Also, so far, I have not seen one painted rock! I continued to the dispersed camp at the end of the metalled road. Today, the sun & heat made the climb harder than expected. In Darby I was told told it’s going to warm up!! Something to think about.

Sally & Rick

Sally & husband, Rick have this amazing smallholder which sits at the end of a short dirt lane. Only 5 miles from town but very other worldly. Scattered around are large yard & beyond are a mass of small buildings, housing chickens, horses, people & I’m pretty sure many other things as well. Rick runs an auction house & Sally runs everything else. Both around my age & very busy people.

The Yard

My Pad

Sally proposed I stop another day. Worked for me. My leg wound was still weeping a little so another days would help. Also time to update my blog, explore the area & read my book.

As a thank you for accounting me, I took Sally along to Naps Grill, burgers do not come better than this!

Chad & Kaelin, Rd Barn Cycles. In Hamilton MT

On the way back, we called in at Red Barn Cycles where owner Chad, & takes bikes. Should have taken more pictures.

Check out http://www.redbarnbicycles.com

These guys know their stuff, in particular wilderness riding.