Ethal had coffee & breakfast laid out around 6:30 am and had put aside an article of a MT man from Butte who had finished 9th in the GDMBR race earlier this year.

John, from Virginia Beach – a tutor by profession, was using his summer to cycle W to E across the USA, along country lanes, roughly following the Trans American. He’d come to cycling after a health scare, contracting hepatitis that resulted in a liver transplant. Now as good as ever, he reckons – even competes in distance races.

Ethal, is a living legend in these parts, & an inspiration to all. At 81, she bikes everywhere, runs every day, hosts cyclists like John & I, sits and advises on numerous Missoula committees & is one of the most interesting people you could hope to meet. Last year, Adventure Cycling magazine wrote an article on her ride to celebrate her 80th birthday, setting out many of here achievements. She told me there were a number of errors but it was flattering, so she did not complain.

Ethel & dog, Lela, who had taken a shine to me.

Ethel, John & Me – Farewell Picture

Today, I could have ridden the easy cycle path to Hamilton – which runs along the main road. Instead I set my Garmin to Mountain & took to the hills. Bad mistake!!! First 20 miles were fine.

It all started to go wrong when my Garmin led me off to Upper Woodchuck Road.

I learned later, the road had not been maintained for years & was known to be impassable. 5 miles of dragging my heavy bike up 45 degree inclines, I could go no further & reluctantly returned back to the main gravel road to continue the climb up the valley. With no maps, poor GPS signal & my Garmin continually telling me to do a U-Turn & take the route I had just returned from, I knew I was chancing my luck. After 2 hours of steep climbing, I made it to the top of the pass & was presented with a choice of 5 tracks. My Garmin chose one that did not exist so took the nearest one to it.

After a fifteen mile downhill with my Garmin again, continually demanding me to do a U-Turn, I arrived, completely lost, at the home of Shane & Kelly.

Shane & Kelly plus dogs

By now it was late, I was miles off course. They were great! They gave me a beer, and, very kindly, gave me a ride to Hamilton. Warm Showers host, Sally came out to greet me & the evening went much, much better! But, what a day!!

Up at 6:30 & worked till 11:00. Ethel sorted me with coffee & breakfast before setting of to meet her son.

First stop of the day was Adventure Cycling offices – a small but impressive place. Historic bikes, photos & rides decorate the walls. Although only 40 people work here, it covers all of America’s main cycle routes, plus maps, research, marketing, lobbies & provides advice to government, organises guided tours, and more. As a member, I had a great welcome, got my own guided tour, an ice cream, a very smart looking scarf, and my picture in the wall of travellers.

Today in Downtown is the start of the Missoula international chloral festival – takes place every three years. The “Out To Lunch” event, next to Clark Fork river, provided a taster of what was on offer – including local, as well as choirs from all over the world. Unusual as it may seem, although the event was on a grand scale, it was organised by community groups & Missoula radio. Also, most all the visiting artists were being hosted by the town residents.

Europeans in Missoula is very recent indeed. In 1803, President Jefferson sent Meriwether Lewis out to find the Northwest Passage. He returned declaring the best route to be through the Missoula valley. Much later on, 1859, Mullen created a more manageable route connecting the Missouri Columbia Rivers – much of which exists today.

In the evening, fellow cyclist, John, Ethel & I chilled over a few glasses of wine, talking bikes, past adventures & new places. One thing we had in common – we travelled alone.

Today I decided on detour to Missoula MT, 65 miles east, rather the turn south for a wilderness ride. Missoula happens to be the home of the Adventure Cycling Club, the definitive multi-day cycling organisation for America. The GDMBR includes an Alternate route here but I chose the main route & regretted it ever since. Both the city & the HQ sit very high in expectations. Checking the map, it means me doing my own Segment 2.

Before setting off l called by at Jackie’s Expresso shop for a chat, coffee & responded to a few emails. Superior, I am told, is run by five founder families. To survive here you need to fit in – in other words, know who’s boss. If you can afford to get into the “local” cities, it’s a good place to live. If not, as is the case with so many poor people here, it’s a kind of prison – with lots of churches!!

My ride took me along quiet country lanes but also included two stretches of I-95. Fortunately not too busy so felt quite safe.

I found a very friendly bar at Huson – Larry’s 6 mile bar. Here, owner Kendra (no Larry) oozed pride in the service she provides the.community. Here she is showing the No Bar Too Far book – comprehensive listing of Montana bars – including hers.

Made it to my Warm Showers hosts, Ethal Macdonald, in Missoula, at 6pm. A very warm welcome, a cold beer & dinner were all served in quick succession. Very nice indeed.

Edith only came to cycling in her early 60’s. Now in her late late 70’s she has biked all over the world – and when at home, all over Missoula.

Today was a rest day – no riding. I did GE stuff at Expresso’s cafe whilst Jackie kept me topped up with coffee.

An explore of the “town” —-

The other hotel in town

— then cooked dinner for Marcia.

My host- Marcia – thanks for taking me into your home!

I poked my head out of the tent to view a deserted Restaurant & town!

With the food trash at the back of the building I didn’t follow the proposal of the waitress so had to hang my food before bed.

The ride continued along an old railroad line, sandwiched between the I-90 & river. Without warning & for no reason, my front wheel slid &, in slow motion, me & my bike were flying through the air – landing with a thump & a slide to a painful halt, courtesy of my right arm & leg. 2 miles on, I cleaned my wounds in Saint Regis then calling home. Today was brother Allan’s birthday so had a nice chat with him too.

Wes & Bonnie Miller- Saint Regis

These guys were heading back to Kellogg.

Wes was keen to chat about my ride & his past travels. He grew up fast, working for his grandad door to door selling & knife sharpener. Same age & beginning as Dave from Eureka on GDMR only Dave became very, very rich. Wes & I share a goal, to visit South Dakota, for him to see Chief Crazy Horse Monument, for me it’s the Badlands, Black Hills & Deadwood where they still perform Calamity Jane.

Wes’s other recommendation is Devils Tower, WY. Story is that General Custard was searching out this strange lump of rock when he got into bother.

Next stop was Superior MT – end of Seg 1 Here I plan to rest my legs a day & get wounds treated. The $130/night town motel was too expensive, but happened upon Marcia plus daughter, Tanya-Marie & son Jason. I was offered a back garden & use of the bathroom. Perfect!! That evening, Marcia & I drove the 1/2 mile to the local diner & talked on America & her family. She opened up on to me on the death of her husband & two sons, and her financial struggle at this later stage in life. US welfare does not cater well for people like Marcia.

Last night we had thunder, lightning & heavy rain. The day before I’d put my washing out to dry, needless to say – pointless!

Janet & John, only having a small camper van had allowed my little tent to squeeze into their RV plot. They kindly gave me coffee while picking my brains about the WWR, kit & navigational. Janet, a cyclist, is planning to retire & was clearly looking for a challenge. I returned to the 1313 bar for breakfast while my kit dried.

Janet rode the 1st few miles with me

On occasions during this trip my Garmin has been useless. Whether it’s the GPS route downloaded or the signal. My homemade maps were essential. We therefore fumbled to the route out of town & on.

Dilapidated railway buildings in Mullan ID

Up high on the trail, I came across a family loading up 6 goats for a 3 day hike to a mountain lake. Each goat had a bright red mini saddle. First thought – what a strange place to have a goat ride business!

At Saltese the ride picks up an old rail track at a magnificent viaduct.

I should have explored Saltese. At first it looked to be hamlet of deserted houses. Viewing from the viaduct, there was clearly more – including a motel.

According to my Garmin, the picture is De Borgia’s town centre. Fortunately there’s a a little more – a restaurant two blocks up.

All of today’s ride has been in searing heat.

Again, no WWR riders – maybe tomorrow?

Packed & out early. Plan was to find a nice hot breakfast so made do with a thick layer of Nutella on a tortilla. Soon to learn the nearest place was at Wallis, 25 miles on, over challenging pass in 45C.

Simple mountain solution to stop a building falling down

I tried cycling the climb but 9 miles up & gave in.

Right at the summit of Dobbs Pass, heading in the opposite direction came Ashley & Kelsey.

First bikers in days – it was a great moment. We took pictures, shared blogs & stories & went our separate ways. Short but very nice. http://www.Chasethechaffe.blogspot.com

Entering Wallace

Made it to Wallace for 2:30pm & found my breakfast at the 1313 bar. Great place – highly recommend for food, service & atmosphere.

My arrival coincided with the Blues Festival. Motels were $300 & All CGs were full. I got to share a pitch with a camper van so all was good – as it usually does.

Evening was very gentle. Back outside the 1313 bar in the warm evening air, with a few beers, blog writing & listening to Blues music drifting down the street.

Also acquired a little company to keep me entertained. These friendly ladies are my latest blog followers who have promised to spur me on as I head south.

Callie & Jan(?) introduced me to their gang to round off a very nice evening.

Packed & out for 9:30 am – record time for me.

Got a breakfast tortilla & coffee from the store up the road before headed out. Passed by Delta – gas station & store, on to Noxon.

One dead bike & the bridge to Noxon

Noxon is magic. You get a sense of what’s to come as you cross the aged but still magnificent steel bridge & enter this hideaway town. It sits on lush plan at the Bull River & Clark Fork confluence.

The Mercantile Noxon

Roads on this side of the river lead to wilderness so the only through traffic are people like me. Had I had known of this last night, I’d have pushed on. How long will this idilic place survive? 4 miles north I encounter three real estates shops selling pieces of MT along the many development roads that disappear into the mountains. When the deals are done, posters are nailed up with the clear message POSTED- KEEP OUT!

Friendly but only to a point

An observation, regardless that we are in the middle of nowhere, you can always find someone mowing Montana.

Just learnt that Wimbledon players were sprinkled on too – pleasing to know.

My ride out of Paxton & MT was along a dirt road up to Porcupine Pass & into Idaho. A hellish 25 mile climb in 40C+ heat almost finished me off.

The climb

I hit the top around 7:30 pm but no photo opportunity- border post – very disappointing in deed. 25 miles of fast decent was compensation. I hit the metalled road around 9:00 pm & camper in a nearby picnic area. picnic table & WC to store food from bears – home from home!!

Plan was for an early start & take an easy ride to Troy, then Noxen, 65 miles in all.

Breakfast at 7am packed but read emails which absorbed a few hours. Fortunately the ride was easier than expected & the CG was 4 miles before Noxen.

Today’s ride was undulating but relatively easy. Good since it enabled me to get a few miles into my legs without injury.

Halfway House – Here you can get sex in the woods & still get change from a ten dollar bill! Enquiring further (as you might) I was told it’s MT moonshine.

Photos from today’s ride

Two Rivers CG is great. $13 got me a pitch, nice hot shower & WiFi.

Still no WWR riders on the trail to be seen. Maybe tomorrow?

Today is my wedding anniversary so woke to a nice message from Christine. I decided to stick around Libby today, check out the town & relax.

MT State Hwy2 passes the north edge of town. As expected, it’s really two towns.

The highway part with its mess of motels, gas stations & fast food outlets.

The other part, is the small, sleepy, administrative city, not pretty but claims to be “historic” going back to its beginning as a mining & logging activities around 1919. The mountain backdrop & a convenient stopover cover its main attributes.