Mon 8July19 Rexford MT – Libby MT

Finally the sprinklers stopped, allowing me to get out of tent & to the bathroom. My morning was spent working through work emails whilst my kit dried out.

The restaurant opened at 11 am. Over coffee, the manager, Misty, was horrified & very apologetic of sprinklers ordeal. By then I was over it

It made for a good story & had used the forced delay well. Also I had only planned to bike about 5 hrs. Nevertheless she insisted on recompensing me with an American hamburger & coffee.

Misty is a lovely lady. As a child, she was in a fire accident, receiving serious burns & lung damage. Today she runs, plays golf & has a fuller life than most. Spirit of Montana I guess. The chef sold me his i-phone cable so another problem solved.

Misty allowed me to take her picture, she gave me a big hug, told me to be safe, & I was off!!

Rexford makes out to be a “town” but is a big & very popular campground on the edge of an enormous lake. Lake Koocanusa, A reservoir that straggles Canada & USA. The name comes from a competition winner – made up of local Indian tribe, USA & Canada.

First 20 miles follow the river.

This is serious bear county

After the bridge I came across this magnificent memorial to old Bob Tom Jim. On Eagles Wings 27 April 97. Decorated with Beer bottles cartridges bait, plastic flowers & angelic pigs?!

8 miles on, I came across an enormous black bear (twice the size of any seen on the Divide last year). I rang my bell, shouted ‘Yo Bear’ as you do, but he did not budge. Only option was to wait him out. As it happens, a pickup truck came by and off he strolled.

Today was a tough ride – 60 miles with a couple of long climbs. I hit Rout567 around 7:30pm. My choice, if there was one, was to cross onto the next dirt road, back into grizzly bear country & wild camp or follow the metalled valley road down into Libby – 20 miles south.

Today, I met fellow rider, Aaron. Riding north. He was riding Segment 1 S > N & had come access only one rider heading south. I could be in for a lonely ride???

Sun 7July19 Roseville MT to Rexford MT

Today I leave Whitefish, or as Tim would have it, the monument to recreation & fun! I can see his point.

Loaded ready for a lift to the border

We had a lot of fun & enjoyed educating each other in the peculiar ways of each others ways & politics & other stuff.

Together they make a great team.

Jenni had been a project manager in the construction industry but left to take stock & plan a new career. Meanwhile she is an Über drive. Unlike U.K., here taxis are scarce & these guys are a godsend.

Tim had been the ultimate multi-day cycle traveller.

Tim & his well travelled bike

11 years on the road & many successful books to his credit. Check out:

The road that has no end

Down the road in South America

Down the road in south east Asia

Downtheroad.org.

With rental properties from his boos, Tim is also now a temporary teacher. The kids love him. When kitting out in Kalispell, we met an old student who was so keen & proud to let Tim know of her college plans. Still has the itching to maintain shallow roots, always with an eye on the next state. He says he had a midlife crisis & went normal but will that last??!

2:25pm we departed the Canadian border together. Tim rode the first 10 miles before heading back to the car. Now the ride begins!!

25 miles in & headed 7 miles off route to Redford campground. Paid $15 for a pitch & show my spot. After settling in for the night I heard a gentle shower of water repeatedly sweeping over my tent. I was in the Center of a sprinkler system. I can vouch for their efficiency – by morning everything was soaking wet!!

Sat 6 July 19

Today was spent food shopping, wandering around arts fair & final tweaks to my bike. Very pleasant & restful.

In the evening we headed for The Great Northern Barn Grill for a farewell dinner. This is a very popular but odd place. It collects & displays the signs of every business in the area that has failed!

Despite this, the food & iPA were spot on.

Fri 5 July 19 Whitefish

The Glacier Cyclery in Whitefish had the kit I needed so looking good!  I could now plan my start. Since arriving the weather had been wet so decided to head out on Sunday with the forecasted improvement.  

In summer, the nearby Whitefish Ski Resort has  serious downhill biking & hiking. Tim had a circular hike in mind from the Summit (top of the cable car) to Flower Point.  
20 minute Ride up to 7000ft to Summit House
Gliding in near silence, feet dangling from the chair lift, was amazing. 
At the summit we hiked the Flower Point loop. A little scare was had on the way back – the lift was broken. A frustrated bride was wandering around on top wondering how all her guests would make it up. They did make it – though a little later than planned.

Thu 4 July 19 Whitefish

Independence Day & nothing had arrived at the airport.  TSA were to blame, not the airline, so these needed to sort the matter out.  A lost property application was made & was assured of a reply within 5 days!!

Today was the day that America got back at me. All the useful shops were closed to celebrate getting one up on the English. Instead a pleasant day was had chatting & chilling with Jenni & Tim. Plus catching up on jet lag.

Wed 3rd July 19 Whitefish

I had discovered Jennifer Howell & Tim Travis, through Warm Showers, a club of likeminded people who share their homes with other cyclists. These guys were warm & welcoming & I hit it off with them straight away.

I took my hosts to breakfast at my favourite Swift Creek Cafe before returning back to their garage to rebuild my bike.

Me my box & Porter (dog)

Turned out that when airport security had emptied my box, on repacking they failed to replace the stem & seatpack clamp.

After 3 hrs on the phone taking to machines & people in India We were informed to expect their arrival on the late evening flight.

So with that reassurance, the afternoon was given to a little pleasure. With Jen at the wheel, the three of us drove to Glacier National Park. It straggles the US & CA & is defined by the section of the high continental divide containing peaks & ridges, deep broad valleys & of course glaciers.

Jenni & Tim

Riding up to Logan Pass, we passed alongside a 50m wall, saw rivers that fell nearly vertically from the sky & lots of stunning scenery. All of this & only one hour drive out of Whitefish.

Tue 2nd July 19 – UK to MT

Manchester farewell to my wife Christine

4:30am UK, 2 July, Christine & I set off for Manchester Airport with my bike boxed. It was daylight already! I knew it was going to be a tough journey, Kalispell MT is not the easiest destination – 3 flights and 24 hours from home. My reward is Whitefish. A delightful town surrounded by mountains, forests, lakes & bears. It’s by pure chance I’m here 2 yrs in a row. Last year I was riding the Divide & learned to bikepack. Lessons learnt from today’s journey – stay clear of e-booking companies & never, ever fly into Newark for a connecting flight out of Laguardia!! With only 3.5hrs, I needed a very expensive taxi ride & only got to the Denver departure gate with 5 min to spare.

On my arrival at Kalispell, 9:30 pm mountain time, I was warmly greeted by Tim & Jenifer who sped me to their home in Whitefish & a nice, comfy bed!!