I get enjoyment travelling through wilder places the world over, connecting with the locals and likeminded travellers and found bikepacking the perfect way. But, on this occasion, it is not to be.

Today I jumped on an overnight train to Helsinki. Here I will pack my bike and take a few days exploring before heading home to the UK. Despite resting, my mobility did not improve and the thought of hopping from place to place without a clear goal has no appeal. My mind had been set on travelling at a particular pace and way which has proved not possible in my condition. Better that I return home to family and friends, and sort my injuries before heading out again.

Starting the ride was always high risk. Had I sought the opinions of physio, Dan, or my wife, Christine, they probably would have advised against it. I didn’t do that because, in all my past adventures, not once did I regret going. Even now, I’m pleased I came, just disappointed not to have completed it.

Apologies for cutting the blog short, but hope the little I did made a worthwhile read and a glimpse into this wild, remote corner of Europe.

Finland is 75% forest, 10% water, 7.5% farming, 7.5% everything else. It’s 50% bigger than Great Britain with 10% of its population – concentrated in the far south. For me, the draw is the north. Although the roads are few and communities are remote, here, I feel, is where you can still touch the old culture and get interesting stories.

If you don’t mind the climate, it is worth checking out.

Until the next adventure, goodbye and thanks for following!

Today I explored the Arktikum – housing the museum of lapland & the arctic centre – well worth visiting just to experience the building.

Lapland has had a bloody time of late. Back in 1917, Finland became independent from Russia and was quite a bit bigger. Then, at the start of WWII, Russia attacked Finland, who then partnered with Germany & regained their land. Towards the end of the war, the Russians returned, the Germans retreated, destroying everything as they left. Finland was then forced into a treaty with Russia which included giving up 10% of their Lapland.

Further north, Finns hailed Russians as liberators and built monuments to them.

Workday today so late afternoon before I go exploring.

Rovaniemi is on the arctic circle, is Finland’s most northerly city, and sits on the confluence of two wide, mature rivers – one, Kemijoki, being the longest in Finland. These and the endless forests beyond seem to encircle this island of modernity. Forestry, hunting, fishing, and conservation are big here. As is Santa Claus. Rovaniemi is his official home & has a whole village set aside for him & his elves, and the 1000’s who visit every year.

Being Monday, the public galleries, etc. were all closed, so my day was spent exploring the parks & river walks – and there are lots!

The weather was its unpredictable self but the skies were quite magnificent.

Shelters along the way

Today the hotel was very quiet, so Nora, duty manager and I had time for a nice long chat. Her Sami dress uniform had me fooled, she’s Catalan/S Finnish, widely travelled. 8yrs ago she arrived for seasonal work and never left – even stuck out the sunless winters. She says the worse months Nov-Dec are bad. When the snow comes, everywhere becomes bright. For her, the drab winters are had in the south – where there’s no snow.

As a self proclaimed international, she says her home is the square metre she is standing on at the time of being asked. I like that.

With ongoing issues, I decided to stay in Finland and bus to Rovaniemi. Nora gave me her favourite places: Savonlinnia, Pirvoo, Kothan, and to stay east.

My bus ride sliced through endless pine & birch forests, wetlands, and, of course, the lakes.

A few joints are creaking so am toughing it out for a few days in the very pleasant, Wilderness Hotel Inari. It sits on the south shore of Lake Inari (1,040 km2) – almost half the area of Luxembourg, but can claim only 3rd of Finland’s lake size.

With the fortunate exception of my hotel, Inari is waiting for the tourists before opening up proper – the timing of which continues to be ambiguous – though I am now guessing to be due to the unpredictable weather. In the past two days we’ve had everything – sun, rain, hail, and snow. Also the pleasant 15C is now a chilly 4C.

If you find yourself travelling through Finland & need an overnight stop and you get offered a hunters cabin for the night, politely decline. They are off grid, no heating or water. The wood stove takes an age to heat, water needs to be carried from the lake, bedding is absent, and the loo is a hole 20m away. There is a DIY sauna which is even more work & less time to relax.

The morning started with a little bike maintenance, then work emails before heading out. As with yesterday, similar terrain & 30 mph headwind with gusts. Almost wished for a cold northerly to give me that push.

With limited internet, Christine found me the Wilderness Hotel 2 miles beyond – lovely.

Very pleased to be in the cabin last night & not being part of the storm hammering away outside!

From her more reliable weather app (the IPhone one is hopeless in these parts), Katja advised me to hold back from riding out until after lunch. So, instead of cycling, I sat back & mainly listened whilst she gave me a little insight into the Sami people. Before the international borders, & the laws & restrictions that came with them, the Sami were both nomadic & democracy. In summer months they went off with the reindeer, in winter they gathered as a community for celebrations and to plan the following year. Who went where & with how many reindeer was agreed collectively on need only.

Katja went back to the early 1900’s when the borders and laws of the outsiders began to take affect. Her great grandmother was with her baby, fishing in a canoe, as her people had done for centuries. Unbeknown to her, this was no longer allowed. A patrol spotted them & began shooting. Wounded and chased, she made her way to shore then into the forest and hid in a hollow from a fallen tree. The pursuers were only inches away when the weather worsened & the hunt was called off. Both survived &, in the 1950’s, retold her story in a recording, in Skolt-Sami. The recordings are extensive and personal & Katja listens to them often.

It’s only now, when the Sami culture & language has all but gone, that it is valued.

I asked if the Sami shared the same neutral position as Kirkenes on the Ukranian war. The same she said – but for different reasons. The Sami are passive – no history of conflict – it’s alien to them. ‘For us, even the people we don’t like we depend on and need to get on with.’

Eventually Katja headed for the school and I took another coffee & waited for the storm to pass.

Todays ride was pleasantly undulating through a very wild Lapland, though the strong headwind took away some of the pleasure. Accommodation was to be a hunter’s cabin – all very Finnish.

Sevettijarvi is a wonderful place, even if the pub is always closed, so I decided to stay over.

Katja had headed back to civilisation very early, to purchase more materials for her project – returning 6, tired, large holiday cabins back to a good state ready for the tourist season – whenever that is. She was also to get me a few supplies for the journey.

My day was nice and chilled. A walk along the lakeside, some work emails, some blog postings & calls to home.

During my second lakeside walk I came across a lone boat way off shore. I learnt later that the person rowing was Marju. I waived and the boat came closer. We exchanged a few words – in English of course before being invited on board.

Marju was a teacher at the school – just across from the pub. Her home is somewhere in central Finland so she boards here with other teachers. The school only has 35 students, aged up to 15 yrs & 5 teachers – confirmation they take education very seriously indeed! The school is also tasked with ensuring local culture is kept alive. I made comment on how wild Lapland felt. Not to the Sami people, she replied. The whole land is crisscrossed with paths & these people know every one.

Too soon, we were cut short by the rain and headed for shore. I thanked her for the cruise & memorable encounter. She said – that’s what travelling is about. And I quite agree!

Packed & back over the bridge to pick up route 92 & the Finnish border.

Jaajarvi – population 6, nearest neighbours 20 miles. Yet boasts 2 well stocked supermarkets, a cafe (ish) & petrol station. Finland’s USP – its much cheaper than Norway so people travel here from miles around.

In Jaajarvi, over coffee, I was provided a contact for accommodation in Sevettijarvi, Katja was to be my host. Arrangements were quickly made & peddled on.

My stay was to be a lodge that was still work in progress across from a bar that was closed! Can you see the pattern?