Hotel Skandia’s manager, Benjamin, had been a good host and shared swapping stories of travels and sports played in our earlier lives. Having been an American football pro with its gruelling training (all about the legs) – like most of us, life’s pressures have since got in the way so he has done little. He asked my age, an indication I might be old, and should know better. Even more so when I asked him not to dispose of my bike box just yet – not until I know if my hip will take me a reasonable distance.

The ride began with an unexpected off-road climb and had me dragging my heavy bike up & through unrideable terrain. then SW on the open road & into the sparsely populated hinterland.

I quickly learnt that the area remains in winter closedown. Everywhere opens as the tourists arrive – ‘sometime in June’, I’m told, but withholding any exact date. Until then, hotels, campsites, restaurants, museums, cafes, & most shops will remain closed.

I arrived in Neiden via the E6 & crossed the Njavdanjonka river at the spectacular rapids! The fastest flowing water I’ve ever seen & so close you could almost touch it. Having given up any hope of a comfortable bed, I found myself a “quiet” place to camp at the rear of a hunting lodge. Despite the roar of the river some 300m away & 24 daylight I did manage a good nights sleep.

My bike is now rebuilt and supplies got – excluding bear spray. I’m told that, although they are plentiful in number and move in large groups across Norway, Finland and Russia, they don’t bother humans much. I guess I’ll find out!

Seasons change very fast here. A few weeks ago, people were travelling around on snowmobiles, then the snow “disappeared overnight”. I arrived on 18 May to bare trees and a colourless landscape. 2 days later and the trees are half in leaf and the primroses are out. And it’s warm – a very nice, sunny 16C.

Being isolated from Norway further south, the region has a closeness to its immediate neighbours. Being close to the Russian border, the communities are intermingled – they share a common history and have a strong presence in the town, local industries are interdependent on one another.

With the Ukrainian war and Norway applying to join NATO, I was interested to learn what had changed. Of the people I spoke to, the answer was – nothing much. They want to stay as neutral as they can.

They have Russian friends or work for or are dependent on Russian trade. For example, a large local big employer who repairs mainly Russia ships. The loss of such a business would be devastating for the area.

Only 12hrs door to door and now safely arrived at the Scandic Hotel, Kirkenes – the starting point of my ride and what feels to be the end of world.

The day began less certain. At Birmingham Airport, the SAS check-in lady advised that my cycle box (pre-paid and meeting all the required SAS criteria) may be too large for their small CR J900 plane. My bag was therefore checked in as provisional and I was given the job of personally observing the bike’s loading. Only then could I confidently board!

I rarely bother looking out of plane windows anymore but north of Copenhagen along the coast north to Oslo and beyond, I saw a very unfamiliar world. Remote islands, large & small, some inhabited, some not; vast waterscapes and forests and more. I think there is an adventure waiting to be had for Christine & me.

Getting ready for another adventure!