8:15 am – Miles, Dusty & I set off from the Murray Hotel & rode to Hachita, 72 miles to the south. The high mountains were finally behind us, replaced with high desert – mesas & rolling hills.

Miles – climbing out of Silver City

The 40 mile stretch of clay road between White Signal & Separ was dry enough to ride on without too much difficulty & we were back on to gravel & metalled roads before the new rains had time to deteriorate.

Dusty on the clay roads

Crickets here are big & plentiful

Often seen staggering on the trail. This fellow is about 50mm!

Lunched at Separ, a huge store that tries to sell everything – about 20 staff & hardly any customers.

1st sign showing Antelope Wells & journey’s end

Another Divide Crossing on route to Hachita

Dusk & best light as we approach Hatchita

Today, Hachita was having bi-annual reunion – past & present residents reunited at the community centre – eat & drink home cooked food & weird, potent brews, dance & reminisce. Divide riders were present in force & were made very welcome. Poor weather (recent & future) had funnelled about dozen of us together &, on this night, some more than others, made our mark. Karey Todd was in her element & ma great ambassador for our group – chatting & dancing with one & all.

I accepted a bed for the night from Shuttle organiser, Jeff Sharp, he had promised a hot shower &, 1 mile west of the noise, a quite night’s sleep. I found it at the end of the worst dirt road of the entire ride – a most unexpected challenge which left my bike & packs in caked in clay.

A rest day and, for the last time, an opportunity to get supplies for the last two days. Now in Silver City, my finishing date is clear so needed to organise my way back into the real world. Most of the day was spent securing the 150mile ride from Antelope Wells to El Paso, locating a bike shop to box my bike, accommodation, flights, etc.

Outside, it rained all day, nonstop. Plus, the forecast, which changes by the hour, currently shows we may be riding in it.

Downtown Silver City

In better weather & with more time, Silver City would have been a great place to explore. As with the Pinos Altos, Indian attacks on the town caused the place to be abandoned in the 1860’s. It was the home of Billy the Kid – for which much is made. The place also has good walks & nearby historical sights dating back to the Spanish occupation & before. Indian tribes around here were some of the most advanced in the North America.

An early start for our long day

Lunch stop at Lake Roberts – before the last big climb

Wild southern NM

Historic, Pinos Altos – was deserted in 1862 due to harassment from Indians & resettle later following a treaty

Another Divide Crossing – altitude getting lower as we head south

We reached Silver City around 6pm & headed for the Little Toad Creek bar – highly recommend. Had a few beers, a meal & watched local group – Bitches & the Beehive perform. Bed was at the Murray Hotel.

Last night the temperature dropped to -10C with thick frost outside & inside my tent – not much sleep became of it. Main problem was cold feet. The PHD booties were not up to the job. We delayed our start until 10:30am to allow the warming sun to dry out our soaked tents & sleeping bags.

Good news – gone was the miserable weather of the past week, replaced with a warm, sunny day & only a light headwind. Without my fleece & rain gear I saw NM in anew & it is stunning and unique place.

Being on the Divide, there were climbs but in NM they are far shorter – no more 39 milers to contend with.

We shared the campground with riders met in Pie Town. Into the night we all stood, circling a blazing campfire, swapping stories of our journey to this place. Each of us had been on the ride for such a long time, much had become a blur but we new that Silver City, only one day away, is the beginning of the end. Here we would have to plan our returns back to the real world.

Tomorrow will be the toughest of the four days out of Pie Town with over 7,000ft of climbs & 60 miles.

Last night I had most of my layers on & managed a good nights sleep though the heavy rides & relentless wind & cold which continued again were beginning to tire us all. Riding was often at our own pace, well strung out along the track & occasionally together for a chat. With the ever changing weather, there were many stops to add or remove gear. One minute sunny next rain or hail. – but always wind.

We travelled through canyons, forests, a vast dry lake, and open wasteland. All spectacular but would have been appreciated more in better weather.

Set up camp prepared for another cold night.

In the morning, amongst the hostel guests, was my Portuguese friend, Joao. Another great surprise & a such a coming together in this isolated place.

The morning was spent finishing drying out my kit, removing clay from the bike & chatting with other lodgers. To ride on or stay was the hot topic & would depend whether we believed it would stay dry – but there was no way of knowing. Some riders decided to stay over, Joao, Dusty, Miles & me did not.

Around noon, we set off for Silver City, 4 day’s/180miles ride south through wilderness & the last section of real climbs of the GDMBR route.

We achieved 29 miles before setting up camp. The ride had again been tough – cold, headwinds, hail, rain. Lucky for us, the clay roads gave no problems.

Miles – on the move.

Today’s ranch sign – in wild NM, that are becoming rarer by the day

Church that once served community that has long since left

Lunch – taken huddled again the canyon rocks away from the cold wind & snow.

Hunting for water – near dried up pond of mucky water to filter – only water source of the day

Out of nowhere, an old gent trundled by on his ATV, with dog happily chilling on the back

Miles, wanted his story – He had purchased land and moved here around 2006. With the land being too poor to farm, we struggled how he survive financially in such isolation. We concluded he didn’t need to. When the roads are passible he will travel to Silver City. When they are bad, he stays home & reads. Shops, doctors & other normal support services don’t exist here. He said – if there’s a problem you have to sort it / there generally no one around to help here – nearest true town (with real people) is 60+ miles away

End of day ride descent to camp

It’s great for me to ride with these guys again. Today was tough & the support provided to each other definitely lifted the spirits following the previous weeks challenges.

Grants is a railway town on Route 66 & I-40. Grant is not an attractive time, a mix railway & service industries to serve all the through traffic.

Last night, I called into the local saloon & found myself celebrating Antonio’s 21st birthday with friends.

I stayed longer than I should have so a slightly later departure today.

My target was Pie Town. The Guide proposed 2 days to cover the 75 miles. well achievable (so I thought) if the wind behaved & the forecast for no rain was correct.

As it happened, the 1st 35 miles were against very strong headwinds and the last 30 miles then just stopped.

El Malpais National Monument

Next thing , the temperature dropped & it rained, the hailed & snowed the last 27 miles.

Turning onto the clay road & into the weather- Pie Town, 27 miles on

The clay roads became near impassable. It was a testing experience – especially in the dark. At one point my bike became solid with clay & unridable. I managed to drag it half a mile to firm ground, free the wheels & drive & remount. I decided that keeping the wheels spinning was the best way prevent a recurrence & luckily it worked – though the climbs up the clay sodden parts were a little challenging.

I reached the hostel at Pie Town at 9:45pm – after 12 hours of nonstop riding. I opened the door, freezing but elated. Inside I discovered a wonderfully warm, small room of fellow bikers & hikers – among them was Miles – great reunion! A hot cup of tea & food was quickly provided whilst I described how the horrendous conditions. Some guys were still out there, somewhere?

From here it is only 300 miles to Antelope Wells – and the end of this adventure. However – weather that is forecast is risking this part to be the most interesting / memorable!

I took full benefit of the Launderette’s offer to Dividers of free coffee & use of bathroom & WiFi before setting off.

Today was a very hard ride. 72 miles against a strong headwind on undulating hills. I had to work for every mile – whether up or down.

My ride through Navajo country is high desert – typical views along the way.

Land use being farming, open cast coal mining & gas extraction. The remainder is wilderness of which there is a lot

Finally, I reached Grants at dusk. Settled myself into the Sands Motel (no Frank Sinatra) & across the road for a beer.

I decided to join the family in their bi-weekly shopping trip to Albuquerque. Another delay but concluded that a replacement tyre was the correct course of action.

Photos on route

I finally got riding around 3pm so Grants was out of reach but was now confident that I was well prepared for the next 400 miles (the next bike shop on route)!!

My camp was by the side of the launderette within a wired compound – in the middle of nowhere. No worries escape between 9pm & 7am.

The launderette

The decision to take the Chaco Alternate route south from Cuba to Grants was only taken this morning. Although it is officially the dry season here, the ground is still wet from recent storms & further rain from the Pacific hurricanes is forecast. The guidebook advises against the wilderness route in such cases & with good reason. The roads become impassable & bikes become mired in mud. In the past, riders have abandoned their bikes to walk out.

For the locals, this rain after a prolonged drought, is a godsend, to me it’s very disappointing.

I Packed, & enjoyed a hearty breakfast at Cafe Cuba, I set off.

Shots of the ride –

In my journey, further north, metalled roads were generally adopted by sponsors to look after & keep free of debris. But not here. Rubbish litters the verges, including broken glass bottles & even offcuts of barbed wire. 20 miles in & a flat rear tyre – too big to plug. Crystal Trujillo pulled over, phoned her husband, Hugh, who came out with his pickup. The tyre was not in the best of health which was a worry. For now, all I could do was stick a tyre boot, fit an old fashioned inner tube & consider my options. Hugh had brought me into the Navajo Reservation and I was standing on a high mesa with almost uninterrupted panoramic views of the surrounding desert. As soon as I had arrived, their four adopted “well behaved” children were with me, keen to help. I accepted Crystal’s offer of dinner & a bed, pleased with the company in this wilderness. I spent the rest of the day & evening chatting. Daughter, Lamisha, had made chocolate cookies for desert – they were absolutely delicious!

Another exceptional, hardworking family where religion & generosity are central. They are Trail Angels for the Divide hikers, placing water along the trail & providing accommodation where needed. They don’t normally encounter bikers – I may be their first.

Crystal, replenishing the water for the Trail Hikers.

Hugh is a native Navajo & is in his ancestral area surrounded by family dwellings – such places are referred to as camps. He drives trucks between MN & TX & if his son, Shiloh, is lucky enough, will accompany him on the 3 day trip. Hugh is aware that the Navajo traditions & culture are at risk & is keen to pass them on the next generation. He teaches his children the native language & skills such hunting with slingshot. On the sling shot, he gave me an impressive demonstration.

Crystal was brought up as a Mennonite in Maryland, east USA but changed to a more open religion. She first came to this area as a student with a friend to work in the local Navajo school. Back then, before TV was readably available, most Navajo communities spoke only Navajo & Hugh was the interpreter. They met up on his birthday & as they say, the rest is history. Crystal’s occupation as a teacher ended following the adoption of the four Navajo children & home schools them & manages the house. Quite a handful!

Crystal, Hugh, Lamisha, Shiloh, Michael & Cody

Thanks to Hugh & Crystal, & to the guys below for making my stay so awesome!! All individuals & very special people.

Cody age 5, lots of smiles & hugs. Despite his many health issues is warm hearted, & manages to get himself the centre of attention.

Michael age 7, the cheeky one, could eat for Britain but incredibly skinny. Always keen to help & join in.

Shiloh age 8, the big brother – smart, inquisitive & full of fun. This guy will go places! – is the blood brother of Cody & is great with him.

Lamisha age 11, the smart big sister to them all!! A little studious & with signs of the challenging teenager coming through – lovely personality.

Shiloh & Lamisha are both incredibly bright & outgoing & my offer will remain to take care of them should a visit to the U.K be possible.