Day 4 – Kirkenes to Neiden

Hotel Skandia’s manager, Benjamin, had been a good host and shared swapping stories of travels and sports played in our earlier lives. Having been an American football pro with its gruelling training (all about the legs) – like most of us, life’s pressures have since got in the way so he has done little. He asked my age, an indication I might be old, and should know better. Even more so when I asked him not to dispose of my bike box just yet – not until I know if my hip will take me a reasonable distance.

The ride began with an unexpected off-road climb and had me dragging my heavy bike up & through unrideable terrain. then SW on the open road & into the sparsely populated hinterland.

I quickly learnt that the area remains in winter closedown. Everywhere opens as the tourists arrive – ‘sometime in June’, I’m told, but withholding any exact date. Until then, hotels, campsites, restaurants, museums, cafes, & most shops will remain closed.

I arrived in Neiden via the E6 & crossed the Njavdanjonka river at the spectacular rapids! The fastest flowing water I’ve ever seen & so close you could almost touch it. Having given up any hope of a comfortable bed, I found myself a “quiet” place to camp at the rear of a hunting lodge. Despite the roar of the river some 300m away & 24 daylight I did manage a good nights sleep.

Day 2 & 3 Kirkenes

My bike is now rebuilt and supplies got – excluding bear spray. I’m told that, although they are plentiful in number and move in large groups across Norway, Finland and Russia, they don’t bother humans much. I guess I’ll find out!

Seasons change very fast here. A few weeks ago, people were travelling around on snowmobiles, then the snow “disappeared overnight”. I arrived on 18 May to bare trees and a colourless landscape. 2 days later and the trees are half in leaf and the primroses are out. And it’s warm – a very nice, sunny 16C.

Kirkenes’ strategic importance in WWII – well fortified & protected – reminders are everywhere.

Being isolated from Norway further south, the region has a closeness to its immediate neighbours. Being close to the Russian border, the communities are intermingled – they share a common history and have a strong presence in the town, local industries are interdependent on one another.

With the Ukrainian war and Norway applying to join NATO, I was interested to learn what had changed. Of the people I spoke to, the answer was – nothing much. They want to stay as neutral as they can.

They have Russian friends or work for or are dependent on Russian trade. For example, a large local big employer who repairs mainly Russia ships. The loss of such a business would be devastating for the area.

Day 1 Home to Kirkenes

Only 12hrs door to door and now safely arrived at the Scandic Hotel, Kirkenes – the starting point of my ride and what feels to be the end of world.

The day began less certain. At Birmingham Airport, the SAS check-in lady advised that my cycle box (pre-paid and meeting all the required SAS criteria) may be too large for their small CR J900 plane. My bag was therefore checked in as provisional and I was given the job of personally observing the bike’s loading. Only then could I confidently board!

I rarely bother looking out of plane windows anymore but north of Copenhagen along the coast north to Oslo and beyond, I saw a very unfamiliar world. Remote islands, large & small, some inhabited, some not; vast waterscapes and forests and more. I think there is an adventure waiting to be had for Christine & me.

Preparations

Getting ready for another adventure!

Day 18 Three Forks MT to Bozeman MT

Three Forks happens to be the source of the Missouri River & the place for expensive motels!

I didn’t leave for Bozeman until after lunch & the day was warm. The massive Montana landscape continued, peddling through communities dedicated to potatoes, railway & hay.

Only a few days before I discovered Bill & Heidi had separated but had insisted I called by.

What I didn’t know was that today, Heidi was moving into her new Bozeman home. 20 mins after my arrival, the last of the u-haul removals arrived with the humping muscle of Bill & their two boys, Wyatt & Torrin. The 13yr old boys I knew are now strapping young men and a credit to both. In between unloading boxes, we all dined on sushi in the garden & caught up on the past 3 yrs.

Day 17 Helena MT to Three Forks MT

Still feeling the effects of yesterday’s ride, a slow start meant the heat was already building by the time I’d started riding. Destination was Three Forks – which just happens to be the Worthington coat of arms.

It was 5 miles before I clear Helena and for the Montana landscape to show itself again. You can see why they call it Big Sky country but it could just as easily be called Big Everything.

20 miles in, I came to The Big Bull at Weston – a welcome stop for coke & air conditioning. Dan had messaged, accepting my apologies for not waiting on in Helena for his arrival. It’s tough managing two separate itineraries.

Todays ride was open vista all the way. The road & the railway followed river valleys gently up & down and had the luck on a 5mph wind at my back. The sun & temperature were the killers!

My Garmin brought me into Three Forks via the Old Town Road which was seriously blockaded at ends of a bridge 5 miles in.

Then the miracle – out of this deserted land, 6 young Bozeman guys were hanging out at the bridge & lifted my bike over the two barricades. Without their help 10 miles would have been added to this hard day.

Malizia, David Taylor, John Rumley, Wyatt Nelson, Taylor Kapfer & Brennan Crock

Day 16 Ovando MT to Helena MT

Although I set off early with a good dose of anti inflammatories, it was more to ride some distance before the heat – threatening to reach 98F somewhere nearby. I never expected to reach Helena in one day!!!

Initial destination was to ride over a high plateau to Avon – achieved by 1:30pm. A one horse railway ‘town’ with half a dozen houses and no sign of life outside a cafe which closes at 2pm – so I pedalled 8 miles on to Elliston.

Of similar size & activity but with a bar & food. Once well fed & knee rested, with the wind at my back, I headed to Helena, now only 20 miles distant but with the Macdonald’s Pass to overcome.

Even on metalled road, in the cool of the evening, it was a tough climb. Once over the top however, a most welcome, long downhill all the way in to Helena. I arrived absolutely exhausted though my knee had just about survived!

Day 15 Ovando MT

Up very early to get some alignment with UK working day & 7:30am popped out for final farewells to Dan & Harold. I feel they will ride well together, hopefully all the way to Antelope Wells.

The morning was spent on GE stuff & chilled in the afternoon catching up with family & friends.

Restaurant & Store – & that’s pretty much Ovando!!

Elizabeth & John caught up today & are free camping at the jailhouse. I was invited to dine with them – alfresco of course.

John & Elizabeth preparing dinner – jail house is far left.

Checked in with Dan who seems to have arrived in Lincoln but minus more spokes. Hopefully he can limp to Helena 2 days ride away.

Day 14 Seeley Lake MT to Ovando MT

Having decided my knee would not be up to the ride ahead, today I would ride the trail for the last time.

Chaotic camping – tents crammed to gather to fit into one $5 pitch.

It was to be even hotter today, 39C! Starting early was important.

Our different paces & destinations meant it was most unlikely the six of us would meet as a group ever again so we said our goodbyes to John & Elizabeth before heading off.

Elizabeth was 62, a nurse practitioner (something between a nurse & doctor) & loved her job. I certainly felt safe when she was around. I think she had a pannier dedicated to medication! Husband, John, 65, arboriculturalist, had just retired from from a logging company. Through him I learnt the sad truth of the ecology & things look bleak! Although trees lost in wild fires are replaced with new growth, the flora & fauna is unable to keep pace with the increasing rate of change in climate. Huge plantations will become wastelands before they mature as they become unable to cope with the higher temperatures.

The ride was good – a few good climbs, an excellent 5 mile, high-speed downhill & good gravel. However, by the time we reached Ovando we were hallucinating for cold coke! The village is tiny but bike-packers are welcomed with a range of free accommodation. Being the end of the ride, I opted for the hotel & a.c.

Day 13 Holland Lake MT to Seeley Lake MT

To beat the heat, Dan & Harold had set off on the trail early. To protect my knee I had chosen a route which was gentler in gradient though, not riding through dense forests, I probably had the better scenery.

Boy Scout Road – Acres of Water Lilies, water sports, fishing – All going on – Amazing sight.

On arrival I found Dan sitting in a small patch of shade, waiting for an Uber taxi to deliver a new saddle from Missoula, 30 miles away. His was broken & the latest misfortune to befall him on this ride.

Arriving at the camp ground a couple of miles out of town, we came across John & Elizabeth setting up camp. Having initially met them a few days earlier, it was a very nice reunion.