Sevettijarvi is a wonderful place, even if the pub is always closed, so I decided to stay over.

Katja had headed back to civilisation very early, to purchase more materials for her project – returning 6, tired, large holiday cabins back to a good state ready for the tourist season – whenever that is. She was also to get me a few supplies for the journey.

My day was nice and chilled. A walk along the lakeside, some work emails, some blog postings & calls to home.

During my second lakeside walk I came across a lone boat way off shore. I learnt later that the person rowing was Marju. I waived and the boat came closer. We exchanged a few words – in English of course before being invited on board.

Marju was a teacher at the school – just across from the pub. Her home is somewhere in central Finland so she boards here with other teachers. The school only has 35 students, aged up to 15 yrs & 5 teachers – confirmation they take education very seriously indeed! The school is also tasked with ensuring local culture is kept alive. I made comment on how wild Lapland felt. Not to the Sami people, she replied. The whole land is crisscrossed with paths & these people know every one.

Too soon, we were cut short by the rain and headed for shore. I thanked her for the cruise & memorable encounter. She said – that’s what travelling is about. And I quite agree!

Packed & back over the bridge to pick up route 92 & the Finnish border.

Jaajarvi – population 6, nearest neighbours 20 miles. Yet boasts 2 well stocked supermarkets, a cafe (ish) & petrol station. Finland’s USP – its much cheaper than Norway so people travel here from miles around.

In Jaajarvi, over coffee, I was provided a contact for accommodation in Sevettijarvi, Katja was to be my host. Arrangements were quickly made & peddled on.

My stay was to be a lodge that was still work in progress across from a bar that was closed! Can you see the pattern?

Hotel Skandia’s manager, Benjamin, had been a good host and shared swapping stories of travels and sports played in our earlier lives. Having been an American football pro with its gruelling training (all about the legs) – like most of us, life’s pressures have since got in the way so he has done little. He asked my age, an indication I might be old, and should know better. Even more so when I asked him not to dispose of my bike box just yet – not until I know if my hip will take me a reasonable distance.

The ride began with an unexpected off-road climb and had me dragging my heavy bike up & through unrideable terrain. then SW on the open road & into the sparsely populated hinterland.

I quickly learnt that the area remains in winter closedown. Everywhere opens as the tourists arrive – ‘sometime in June’, I’m told, but withholding any exact date. Until then, hotels, campsites, restaurants, museums, cafes, & most shops will remain closed.

I arrived in Neiden via the E6 & crossed the Njavdanjonka river at the spectacular rapids! The fastest flowing water I’ve ever seen & so close you could almost touch it. Having given up any hope of a comfortable bed, I found myself a “quiet” place to camp at the rear of a hunting lodge. Despite the roar of the river some 300m away & 24 daylight I did manage a good nights sleep.

My bike is now rebuilt and supplies got – excluding bear spray. I’m told that, although they are plentiful in number and move in large groups across Norway, Finland and Russia, they don’t bother humans much. I guess I’ll find out!

Seasons change very fast here. A few weeks ago, people were travelling around on snowmobiles, then the snow “disappeared overnight”. I arrived on 18 May to bare trees and a colourless landscape. 2 days later and the trees are half in leaf and the primroses are out. And it’s warm – a very nice, sunny 16C.

Being isolated from Norway further south, the region has a closeness to its immediate neighbours. Being close to the Russian border, the communities are intermingled – they share a common history and have a strong presence in the town, local industries are interdependent on one another.

With the Ukrainian war and Norway applying to join NATO, I was interested to learn what had changed. Of the people I spoke to, the answer was – nothing much. They want to stay as neutral as they can.

They have Russian friends or work for or are dependent on Russian trade. For example, a large local big employer who repairs mainly Russia ships. The loss of such a business would be devastating for the area.

Only 12hrs door to door and now safely arrived at the Scandic Hotel, Kirkenes – the starting point of my ride and what feels to be the end of world.

The day began less certain. At Birmingham Airport, the SAS check-in lady advised that my cycle box (pre-paid and meeting all the required SAS criteria) may be too large for their small CR J900 plane. My bag was therefore checked in as provisional and I was given the job of personally observing the bike’s loading. Only then could I confidently board!

I rarely bother looking out of plane windows anymore but north of Copenhagen along the coast north to Oslo and beyond, I saw a very unfamiliar world. Remote islands, large & small, some inhabited, some not; vast waterscapes and forests and more. I think there is an adventure waiting to be had for Christine & me.

Getting ready for another adventure!