Day 41 Deliatyn UA – Kosmach UA

**Kosmach – My Ride is Over**
Peter, Mariia, me, Oksana & Miroslav

Too much excitement & apprehension last night for a good nights sleep. The heavy rain forecast till noon had stopped by 09:00 & conditions proved perfect.

Nezalezhnosti Street crossing the Prut River
(near Deliatyn)

The battle site in Rushir, dedicated to the Ukrainian Insurgent Army (UPA) who fought for Ukraine independence from Russia 1945

Kosmach Village – Ivano Frankivsk Oblast – Ukraine!

The ride was very hilly but only 30mls & not having to pace for future rides, I pushed on hard, with occasional stops to enjoy the views & refuel. Landscapes improved with every mile but nothing prepared me for Kosmach. A few meters beyond a hard, 1000ft climb, I got my first view – the most picture perfect valley with dispersed dwellings. This was it, what I’d been cycling to for 41 days!!! It took a moment to sink in & get my emotions in check. I still needed to find the Topuziak’s home & with one zip code, a labyrinth of small roads, in the largest village by area in Ukraine, it wasn’t straight forward. I made my way to the orthodox church & waited for Oksana’s cousin, Vitaliy, to guide me the last 4km on his motorbike.

Turning off a rough metalled road, down a steep gravel track, I finally saw Oksana, her mum & dad, Mariia & others all waiting to greet me! The rush of joy, elation & relief I felt will stay for my lifetime.

Riding in to the Konstantinovich & Topuziak’s home

Lots of introductions, photos & videos were taken but one very special photo was needed to close this ride. Miroslav & Peter Konstantinovich (Oksana’s parents) now joined Oksana, Mariia & me, & Vitaliy took the photo.

My ride was now over!

Dinner served
(& eaten by the time I thought to take a picture)

After, we moved to the porch of Oksana’s house where a long table, full of food & drinks was set out. We sat, we drank & chatted for hours. Later, I had a very belated shower & a little rest then a gentle walk to the edge of the village, guided by Oksana. And that was the end to my absolutely perfect day.

My sincere thanks to all of you who shared in my journey. Your participation pushed me along, giving me the strength to reach Ukraine. My thanks also to my Ukrainian hosts who have warmly welcomed me into their home. Finally to my wife, Christine, who cared for me through my operations & always provides fantastic support on all my adventures.

I am planning on closing my blog for now. I hope you have enjoyed the journey & can give some thought to the challenges & sacrifices war is having on the good people of Ukraine.

Day 40. Dilove UA – Deliatyn UA

My modest Dilove Hostel room view
Not bad!

This is it. The penultimate day of my ride from Newcastle-under-Lyme UK to Kosmach UA!

By 07:15 I was following the Tisa River up into the mountains – the early start worked – I beat the heat & rain, and completed far more miles than planned. There was even a possibility that I’d finish today but, to do so would have made my arrival very late & in the dark – not the grand meeting up I had in mind.

Religious building & great sky at Kvasy village

Climbing to the pass (the highest in Ukraine) there were many bridges like this but none on the other side

This waterfall place was drawing a crowd (off the picture) no idea why?

Yasinya City – beautiful place
And a very visible reminder of the cost of the war! The posters depict the fallen!

Top of the Yablunytsky
pass & border between the Zakarpattia Oblast & Ivano Frankivsk Oblast (my destination)

The most golden roofed church so far at Yabluntsya

Today’s ride did not disappoint – it was fantastic – the best yet. The spectrum of panoramic views, the mix of traditional & modern lifestyles, places to refuel, people that waved & greeted me as I rode past – even the weather was kind. My one complaint – Ukrainian people, nice as they all are, are hopeless drivers.

I finished 30 miles short of Kosmach. Well within reach, regardless of the terrain.

Day 39 Khust UA – Dilove UA

View from my room & Christine’s Birthday Card

Khust is a lovely place & speaking to Oksana, she’s been here on holiday.

I set off as soon as I got access to my bike. It was Chloe’s birthday today so I called & had a nice chat for 3 miles.

First place was a small village shop to buy 1 ltr of milk, but wrongly purchased yogurt. Immediately they exchanged it & tried hard not to accept any payment.

By noon I was only in Tyachiv, with the local sign reporting 37C, I was in need of fluids & food. Tyachiv is a lovely town &, like many places I’ve passed through, time did not allow time to explore.

Lovely rivers along the route with children playing

At Velykyi Bychkiv I entered the Carpathian Biosphere Reserve & through the geographic centre of Europe

Dilove suspension bridge at end of the days ride

Lovely Marina – secured my night’s accommodation by knowing everyone in town & stayed with me until I was in the room. A school teacher & the only person who speaks English! Before the war, this was a popular tourist place. Now, with access restrictions, hardly anyone comes.

I’ve found Ukrainians to be a gentle, friendly people – maybe Putin mistakenly took it as a weakness. Nearly everyone I’ve met here has gone out of their way to assist me.

Velykyi Bychkiv cemetery
Boys & young men who gave their lives
– the photo images make it very real & sad

Travelling through Ukraine, there are the inevitable signs of war. Today I passed through three military check points, flags / flag colours, military personnel, a young man with a missing leg & village graves with war graves – very disturbing.

Day 38 – Mukachevo UA – Khust UA

The Main. Square
(except for a sizeable of off duty, uniformed soldiers war seems a million miles away)

Mukachevo was shrouded in darkness when I arrived late last night but on my morning walkabout I saw a beautiful pedestrianised centre, linked with trees, shops & cafes. Also the cobbled streets I had cursed, lifted it further. My morning was spent breakfasting & getting ready for a shorter ride. I also went to the bank to exchange £s for UAH. I was told $ or € only. With yesterday’s border crossing & the pound rejected – are we falling into obscurity?!

Most of the way, along the roadside fruit stalls were plentiful & excellent

I should be thankful that today’s temp. was only 36C (2 less than forecast) but it was still too hot! Only a mad Englishman would push on 40 miles to Khust. Plus, with tired legs from yesterday’s ride I was happy to get this far.

Most of the fruit stalls were in front of individual houses &, in some villages it seemed every house was selling.

Today is my birthday & lots of messages & calls. Christine had placed a card in my front pouch & I opened it on the call. Lovely!

At the border crossing, a Ukrainian man (who works in Oldham) took the prize for guessing my age – he guessed 63, I told him he was bang on!!

Now I’m in Ukraine, the destination feels very close & am so looking forward to meeting everyone. Oksana & Mariia called to wish me happy birthday & report that they are now in Kosmach – waiting (only 143miles away!!).

Day 37 – Michalovce SK – Mukachevo UA

Velké Slemence – the crossing that turned me back. (Vyšné Nemecké would not allow photos)

08:30 and I was heading for Velké Slemence, a border crossing into Ukraine for cyclists. I chose the main road since it was quiet & made my timing more predictable- afterall the target today was to enter Ukraine. My brother Allan called & kept me company for 10 miles which was very nice.

On presenting my passport, it was obvious there was a problem. This crossing was for Ukrainians & EU only. Not UK! I was directed to a larger, less fussy crossing, Vyšné Nemecké, 25miles away. By now the temperature was 36C & the detour increased my ride from 58 to 82 hilly miles. The 4 hrs to get through customs was an experience in itself & helped to fill the day. But at 17:00 local time, I was in Ukraine – the last of the 7 countries on my journey!!

I reached Mukachevo after dark, got a place to stay & spent the next 2 hrs rehydrating!

Today, friends, family & people I’d met on this journey sent me messages acknowledging the importance of this milestone. My thanks for doing this. I’ve not finished, but it now feels close!

Day 36 Presov SK – Michalovce SK

Today was kind of a repeat of yesterday 13miles climb then pretty much downhill. The differences were the high temperature, reaching 34C & missing my turning on a fast downhill, meaning a few more miles!

Entering Michalovce after my little detour

Centre is a large pedestrian area stretching about 1 km

Tomorrow, all being well, I’ll enter Ukraine at the Velké Slemence, a border crossing open only to pedestrians & cyclists.

Slovakia is a beautiful country but, although wealth is quite evenly spread, there is one big exception. Since entering this county, I have frequently ridden past clusters of disparately poor settlements & ragged people – sometimes isolated (hidden?), other times, placed a short distance from the edge of a town or village.

Too many to ignore, I Googled to find out more. The answer: These shanty towns are marginalised Romani communities due to systemic discrimination, generational poverty, and deep social exclusion. The informal settlements stem from a complex cycle of prejudice, economic isolation and lack of integration.

For me it is very sad & disturbing. Slovakia is a rich, deeply religious country – so how can they justify or passively accept suppression of such a large group of people?

Day 35 Kezmarok SK – Presov SK

Previously, receptionist, Tetiana, had checked me in for my two night stay & was now back on duty following a day off. She’d been a little surprised at me staying so long & was curious as to how I’d filled my time. Explaining my journey, she told me her story. She is Ukrainian, from Odesa & came here in 2022, with her mum. Now here on her own, Tetiana put herself through language school & speaks English, Slovakian, Ukranian, & probably others. Almost as impressive as Mariia!!

Interested in my route to Kosmach, she approved of my entry into Ukraine at Zakarpattia, but was less convinced on the route I’d planned to Mukachevo – I will need to reassess.

Today I kept to the route I’d set out in UK (gravel, cycleways & quiet lanes). A 13ml climb, then 40ml downhill.

Top of the pass – picture **courtesy** of a group of mountain bikers

My Garmin & low gears told me I was climbing but my eyes told me it was flat! There was no mistaking the 8 to 12% near the top of the pass.

Below are pictures of the descent :

Then suddenly – after miles of nothing – a village

I reached Prešov around 16:00, found a nice bar & treated myself to a zero beer while selecting a not too expensive hotel. This city has a stunningly beautiful centre – very cosmopolitan! Shamefully, I took no pictures.

Tomorrow, I have one last climb to take me to the southern edge of the Carpathian Mountains. Thereafter I get one day of flat trails before re entering the mountains again.

Day 34 Kezmarok SK

Last night was confusing, it felt like I’d cycled right through the Carpathian Mountains.
But Kezmarok sits within a wide lush high plateau 2,000 ft above sea level & is surrounded by mountains.

I didn’t reach Kezmarok until after 8pm. The 2,000ft, 20mile descent had been a great end to my ride but I’m destined to pay for the pleasure later! Not today though. I’d found a good hotel, Hotel Club, for a negotiated price which included breakfast, so that was that. I secured my stop over in Kezmarok.

This bike reminded me of a retired couple I met in Spain living their dream at 90!

It was midnight before I’d completed my daily rituals: unpacked, put electric devices on charge, showered, washed clothes & written my blog, so today started with a slow, high calorie multi-breakfast event.

Outside, a classic car event had taken up the square & side streets & an articulated lorry trailer was doubling as a stage, blasting unrecognisable music. I forced myself to wander about, but the noise proved just too much!

Count Imrich Thököly (Emeric Thököly), a 17th-century Hungarian nobleman, military leader, and Prince of Upper Hungary (seems to remain popular today)

Castle Courtyard for lunch & rehydration

A beautiful illustration of the history of the area.
In fact, excluding the neanderthal, its history only dates back to the 13 century.
Although the exhibitions were excellent – the subject & its history were not mine & couldn’t connect.

The range travelled yesterday

(Taken from the top on one of the castle parapets)

I queued 45mins for a 3 min haircut (no comments please) & wandered down to Kezmarok Castle for lunch, a cultural tour & a chat to the Shaw family back home. Got provisions for my ride, then a large pizza, & that was my days’ activity. I chilled, enjoyed the hotel & reviewed tomorrow’s ride.

Day 33 Jabtonka PL – Kezmarok SK

**Carpathian Mountains**
My entry into Slovakia from Poland below the L of the word Poland (travelling SE)

Outside my hotel.
If you look closely the mountain range is on the horizon

Last night, I had been directed to a “not too expensive hotel” @ £25 with breakfast. Only 2miles short of my destination – perfect!

There are a few more pictures than normal because of the landscape & notable architectural changes

Slotystwa village – all buildings here are built to traditional old Polish design – it’s a big village & the overall impact is stunning!

Slotystwa village – one of my meals – forget which one?

Around Slotystwa there’s a network of cycle tracks.

Higher up the valley – holiday homes & chalets start to appear

Still higher up the 598, the views open up

And then Zakopane! A tourist hotspot, Overcrowded & for me, a place to avoid. It’s targeted on general holiday makers & walkers

If you want a hike, finding a place to park is not easy

Crossing the Biela voda river into Slovakia
4 days from now & it will be Ukraine!

Despite priding myself on yesterday’s ride achievement, last night I had slight cramp, & today, a few aches & pain. Probably a sign to rest up for a day. Today’s ride was tough: 54 mls, 4,000ft of climbs, 35C & a head wind. I rode slowly, constantly refuelled & drank gallons of water, milk & lemonade. It worked out well but will now stay in Kezarok for two nights & ready myself for the tough hills ahead.

The buildings here are quite something so added the following to provide a flavour:

Day 32 Bielsko-Biała PL – Jabtonka PL

Up, breakfasted & off by 8:30am – not great but good for me – it takes time to pack & get provisions.

Today’s was 50mls, 4,000ft of climbs & managing the heat & headwind. I took my time &, despite my apprehension, it turned out to be a good ride.

Church in Kościelni – architecture changing quite a bit now. Much more use of timber

About 10 mls in, along the Koszarawa River, near Żywiec there’s a riverside trail I was following & came across a few of these holiday complexes – rivers have concrete slopes that take you to bathe & your boat safely to the water.

Further back from the shore – holiday complex

I’ll now remain in the Carpathian Mountains or its foothills for the rest of my ride. Today was just my introduction, thank goodness, but as the day progressed the high range became ever closer.