Today was kind of a repeat of yesterday 13miles climb then pretty much downhill. The differences were the high temperature, reaching 34C & missing my turning on a fast downhill, meaning a few more miles!

Tomorrow, all being well, I’ll enter Ukraine at the Velké Slemence, a border crossing open only to pedestrians & cyclists.

Slovakia is a beautiful country but, although wealth is quite evenly spread, there is one big exception. Since entering this county, I have frequently ridden past clusters of disparately poor settlements & ragged people – sometimes isolated (hidden?), other times, placed a short distance from the edge of a town or village.

Too many to ignore, I Googled to find out more. The answer: These shanty towns are marginalised Romani communities due to systemic discrimination, generational poverty, and deep social exclusion. The informal settlements stem from a complex cycle of prejudice, economic isolation and lack of integration.

For me it is very sad & disturbing. Slovakia is a rich, deeply religious country – so how can they justify or passively accept suppression of such a large group of people?

Previously, receptionist, Tetiana, had checked me in for my two night stay & was now back on duty following a day off. She’d been a little surprised at me staying so long & was curious as to how I’d filled my time. Explaining my journey, she told me her story. She is Ukrainian, from Odesa & came here in 2022, with her mum. Now here on her own, Tetiana put herself through language school & speaks English, Slovakian, Ukranian, & probably others. Almost as impressive as Mariia!!

Interested in my route to Kosmach, she approved of my entry into Ukraine at Zakarpattia, but was less convinced on the route I’d planned to Mukachevo – I will need to reassess.

Today I kept to the route I’d set out in UK (gravel, cycleways & quiet lanes). A 13ml climb, then 40ml downhill.

My Garmin & low gears told me I was climbing but my eyes told me it was flat! There was no mistaking the 8 to 12% near the top of the pass.

Below are pictures of the descent :

I reached Prešov around 16:00, found a nice bar & treated myself to a zero beer while selecting a not too expensive hotel. This city has a stunningly beautiful centre – very cosmopolitan! Shamefully, I took no pictures.

Tomorrow, I have one last climb to take me to the southern edge of the Carpathian Mountains. Thereafter I get one day of flat trails before re entering the mountains again.

I didn’t reach Kezmarok until after 8pm. The 2,000ft, 20mile descent had been a great end to my ride but I’m destined to pay for the pleasure later! Not today though. I’d found a good hotel, Hotel Club, for a negotiated price which included breakfast, so that was that. I secured my stop over in Kezmarok.

It was midnight before I’d completed my daily rituals: unpacked, put electric devices on charge, showered, washed clothes & written my blog, so today started with a slow, high calorie multi-breakfast event.

Outside, a classic car event had taken up the square & side streets & an articulated lorry trailer was doubling as a stage, blasting unrecognisable music. I forced myself to wander about, but the noise proved just too much!

The range travelled yesterday

(Taken from the top on one of the castle parapets)

I queued 45mins for a 3 min haircut (no comments please) & wandered down to Kezmarok Castle for lunch, a cultural tour & a chat to the Shaw family back home. Got provisions for my ride, then a large pizza, & that was my days’ activity. I chilled, enjoyed the hotel & reviewed tomorrow’s ride.

Last night, I had been directed to a “not too expensive hotel” @ £25 with breakfast. Only 2miles short of my destination – perfect!

There are a few more pictures than normal because of the landscape & notable architectural changes

Despite priding myself on yesterday’s ride achievement, last night I had slight cramp, & today, a few aches & pain. Probably a sign to rest up for a day. Today’s ride was tough: 54 mls, 4,000ft of climbs, 35C & a head wind. I rode slowly, constantly refuelled & drank gallons of water, milk & lemonade. It worked out well but will now stay in Kezarok for two nights & ready myself for the tough hills ahead.

The buildings here are quite something so added the following to provide a flavour: