Day 42 Kosmach UA O9Aug’26

Welcome to Kosmach

My day started late & then slowly – I needed the rest.

Miroslava had prepared breakfast of a favourite, bouzhenitsa – folded pastry with cheese fillings, sour cream & bacon. The three of us (Mariia, Oksana & I) dined in “my” house & planned our day. Before anything, the presents carried by Oksana from England were passed to me & I, in turn, passed the Moorcroft vase to Miroslava & an engraved hip-flask to Peter – I think they liked them. Miroslava will use hers for special church events, I’m guessing Peter will be using his more often.

The river just below their home
The children’s swimming pool – including Oksana’s when she was a child
Checking out the Kosmach views
KOSMACH
6,000 people live in this beautiful, dispersed village

In the afternoon, Oksana & I walked up to the village centre to meet with Mariia & her cousins for a pizza lunch in the Italian restaurant – plentiful, tasty & at Ukrainian prices. Afterwards the children returned to the playground, while Oksana & I continued up to a viewing point I’d missed when first entering the village. Now, with less time pressure & a local guide, I had the time to appreciate this vast valley & take a few more pictures.

Mariia nr home
Walking up to the village

Back down in the centre, we visited Oksana’s sister-in-law (Yuri’s wife), Maria, at her shop. After the introductions & ice creams we accepted her invite to view her flat above for tea & a chat.

Here, parents, Maria & Gregory, joined us. For 6 months a year they now live & work in Massachusetts, staying with their other daughter. When in Ukraine, they help out in the shop but will be returning to the US in October. It was explained that daughter Maria’s business & family commitments & her husband, Yuri’s inability to return to Ukraine makes her life very difficult. I offered a stay in Dulverton should they wish to visit – though this seemed uncertain just now.

Gregory drove the three of us back home, then a rest, then a late dinner, then, finally enough Wi-Fi to post my Day41 blog. What a relief!!

Day 41 Deliatyn UA – Kosmach UA

Kosmach – My Ride is Over
Peter, Mariia, me, Oksana & Miroslav

Too much excitement & apprehension last night for a good nights sleep. The heavy rain forecast till noon had stopped by 09:00 & conditions proved perfect.

Nezalezhnosti Street crossing the Prut River
(near Deliatyn)
Zarichchia village – fallen
The battle site in Rushir, dedicated to the Ukrainian Insurgent Army (UPA) who fought for Ukraine independence from Russia 1945
Kosmach Village – Ivano Frankivsk Oblast – Ukraine!

The ride was very hilly but only 30mls & not having to pace for future rides, I pushed on hard, with occasional stops to enjoy the views & refuel. Landscapes improved with every mile but nothing prepared me for Kosmach. A few meters beyond a hard, 1000ft climb, I got my first view – the most picture perfect valley with dispersed dwellings. This was it, what I’d been cycling to for 41 days!!! It took a moment to sink in & get my emotions in check. I still needed to find the Topuziak’s home & with one zip code, a labyrinth of small roads, in the largest village by area in Ukraine, it wasn’t straight forward. I made my way to the orthodox church & waited for Oksana’s cousin, Vitaliy, to guide me the last 4km on his motorbike.

Turning off a rough metalled road, down a steep gravel track, I finally saw Oksana, her mum & dad, Mariia & others all waiting to greet me! The rush of joy, elation & relief I felt will stay for my lifetime.

Riding in to the Konstantinovich & Topuziak’s home
Warm welcome from Mariia

Lots of introductions, photos & videos were taken but one very special photo was needed to close this ride. Miroslav & Peter Konstantinovich (Oksana’s parents) now joined Oksana, Mariia & me, & Vitaliy took the photo.

My ride was now over!

Dinner served
(& eaten by the time I thought to take a picture)

After, we moved to the porch of Oksana’s house where a long table, full of food & drinks was set out. We sat, we drank & chatted for hours. Later, I had a very belated shower & a little rest then a gentle walk to the edge of the village, guided by Oksana. And that was the end to my absolutely perfect day.

My sincere thanks to all of you who shared in my journey. Your participation pushed me along, giving me the strength to reach Ukraine. My thanks also to my Ukrainian hosts who have warmly welcomed me into their home. Finally to my wife, Christine, who cared for me through my operations & always provides fantastic support on all my adventures.

I am planning on closing my blog for now. I hope you have enjoyed the journey & can give some thought to the challenges & sacrifices war is having on the good people of Ukraine.

Day 40. Dilove UA – Deliatyn UA

My modest Dilove Hostel room view
Not bad!

This is it. The penultimate day of my ride from Newcastle-under-Lyme UK to Kosmach UA!

Tisa River near Kostylivka village

By 07:15 I was following the Tisa River up into the mountains – the early start worked – I beat the heat & rain, and completed far more miles than planned. There was even a possibility that I’d finish today but, to do so would have made my arrival very late & in the dark – not the grand meeting up I had in mind.

Church at Kvasy village
Religious building & great sky at Kvasy village
JCB digging away further up river
Climbing to the pass (the highest in Ukraine) there were many bridges like this but none on the other side
This waterfall place was drawing a crowd (off the picture) no idea why?
Yasinya City – beautiful place
And a very visible reminder of the cost of the war! The posters depict the fallen!
Top of the Yablunytsky
pass & border between the Zakarpattia Oblast & Ivano Frankivsk Oblast (my destination)
The most golden roofed church so far at Yabluntsya

Today’s ride did not disappoint – it was fantastic – the best yet. The spectrum of panoramic views, the mix of traditional & modern lifestyles, places to refuel, people that waved & greeted me as I rode past – even the weather was kind. My one complaint – Ukrainian people, nice as they all are, are hopeless drivers.

I finished 30 miles short of Kosmach. Well within reach, regardless of the terrain.

Day 39 Khust UA – Dilove UA

View from my room & Christine’s Birthday Card
Khurst

Khust is a lovely place & speaking to Oksana, she’s been here on holiday.

I set off as soon as I got access to my bike. It was Chloe’s birthday today so I called & had a nice chat for 3 miles.

First place was a small village shop to buy 1 ltr of milk, but wrongly purchased yogurt. Immediately they exchanged it & tried hard not to accept any payment.

Tyachiv – for lunch

By noon I was only in Tyachiv, with the local sign reporting 37C, I was in need of fluids & food. Tyachiv is a lovely town &, like many places I’ve passed through, time did not allow time to explore.

Lovely rivers along the route with children playing

At Velykyi Bychkiv I entered the Carpathian Biosphere Reserve & through the geographic centre of Europe
Dilove suspension bridge at end of the days ride
Lovely Marina – secured my night’s accommodation by knowing everyone in town & stayed with me until I was in the room. A school teacher & the only person who speaks English! Before the war, this was a popular tourist place. Now, with access restrictions, hardly anyone comes.

I’ve found Ukrainians to be a gentle, friendly people – maybe Putin mistakenly took it as a weakness. Nearly everyone I’ve met here has gone out of their way to assist me.

Velykyi Bychkiv Bridge
Velykyi Bychkiv cemetery
Boys & young men who gave their lives
– the photo images make it very real & sad

Travelling through Ukraine, there are the inevitable signs of war. Today I passed through three military check points, flags / flag colours, military personnel, a young man with a missing leg & village graves with war graves – very disturbing.

Day 38 – Mukachevo UA – Khust UA

The Main. Square
(except for a sizeable of off duty, uniformed soldiers war seems a million miles away)
Around town
Cake & more coffee

Mukachevo was shrouded in darkness when I arrived late last night but on my morning walkabout I saw a beautiful pedestrianised centre, linked with trees, shops & cafes. Also the cobbled streets I had cursed, lifted it further. My morning was spent breakfasting & getting ready for a shorter ride. I also went to the bank to exchange £s for UAH. I was told $ or € only. With yesterday’s border crossing & the pound rejected – are we falling into obscurity?!

The ever closer Mountain View
Most of the way, along the roadside fruit stalls were plentiful & excellent

I should be thankful that today’s temp. was only 36C (2 less than forecast) but it was still too hot! Only a mad Englishman would push on 40 miles to Khust. Plus, with tired legs from yesterday’s ride I was happy to get this far.

Most of the fruit stalls were in front of individual houses &, in some villages it seemed every house was selling.

Today is my birthday & lots of messages & calls. Christine had placed a card in my front pouch & I opened it on the call. Lovely!

At the border crossing, a Ukrainian man (who works in Oldham) took the prize for guessing my age – he guessed 63, I told him he was bang on!!

Now I’m in Ukraine, the destination feels very close & am so looking forward to meeting everyone. Oksana & Mariia called to wish me happy birthday & report that they are now in Kosmach – waiting (only 143miles away!!).