Day 49 Kosmach UA 16Aug’26

Up early & finished yesterday’s entry ready with Oksana’s input. I was still feeding off yesterday’s barbecue so breakfast was minimal. Priority was to load my bike into Dmitry’s car. My luck was in.

Our leaving time to the Shepit Polonyn Fair had been brought forward. At 12:30, six of us piled into her uncle Gregory’s VW for a one hour drive further up the valley. The roads to Kosmach are infamous but the drive today took it to a new level. At little over 5mph the van survived & arrived at 13:30.

Despite our early arrival, the stall attendants, all in traditional dress, were patiently waiting for customers & we obliged with a few purchases for the children. The area is famous for its cheeses and the main stalls, around 20, sold nothing else. Great effort had been placed on the stage setting & cheese stall displays but fell short on most everything else. Seating included two rotten planks which collapsed after enough people sat on them, also no tasty food or drink stalls & minimal local craft stalls.

After a while, the consensus was that we head back. Later that day, Miroslava was asked what she liked about the fair – her reply “nothing”. For me, it was worthwhile because it was new, the mad ride up the mountain, experiencing such a remote village & their traditional fair – but I did feel we were intruders into this closed community fair in which none of us belonged.

Back home, Vitaliil showed me around his/his father’s building project, designed by his architect friend who had since died in this war. The multi purpose building is to be a restaurant, function room & guest accommodation. Aesthetically it already has curb appeal &, despite the war, work continues as funds allow. Because of the loss of his friend, completion will be bitter-sweet but Vitaliil’s intention is for the building to include his memory in some way.

Our day ended with a barbecue at Vitaliil’s family home. A spacious house with lots of outside space for entertaining & growing food. Again, the same question arose as to whether I’d live here. My answer was the same, that from here on, Kosmach will be my second home. Next year, Petro, a guy I’ve never met before committed me to a 3-5 day wilderness hike in the mountains. Around 19:00, we broke up. The cows needed milking & I needed to get ready for tomorrow’s early start. I said my goodbyes with a commitment to return speaking some Ukrainian.

Just before bed, Miroslava & Peter called by with Oksana to say goodbye & hand over gifts as thanks for making the journey here & for the support Christine & I provide Oksana’s family in the UK. No thanks was needed – having this family has enriched both our lives & is more than reward enough!

Tonight is my last night in this amazing place, tomorrow I start my slow journey home.