Day 28 Wrocław PL

Last night, chatting to Kacper, I learnt a little about his city. Over the centuries, Wroclow has changed countries many time. In the 20th C, until the end of WWII, it was part of Germany & was the last place to surrender to the Allies (2 wks after Berlin). He recommended I get hold of a book ‘A Portrait of a Central European City’ by Norman Davies and Roger Moorhouse. Something I’ll follow up on back home.

Today was predominantly a rest day. I’d enjoyed my ride-sleep-repeat routine but was now getting tired, and taking one day out in this place was perfect. My first morning stop was at Café Nero, off Nożownicza Street, a 30-minute walk from Kacper’s apartment. It was a great place to chill and had lovely cakes.

Ordering my 2nd coffee I met Marina Ostrowski & spent a delightful hour talking about my ride & her interesting life. Born in Brazil of Polish ancestry, after completing her education, 3yrs ago, with her parent’s blessing, she left to find her Polish roots & Wroclaw was her chosen place. Her brother is here also, & gets away without speaking any Polish.

One thing that surprised me is that you can survive here speaking only English. Since the fall of the Berlin Wall, English has been taught in all schools.

In the afternoon I did a little exploring & culture. And here’s some of what I saw & learnt:

My time in the National History Museum.

Here an exhibition included Miracle-Workers. They described them as ‘the world created by human hands, which was first conceived in the human mind and imagination, and then “miraculously” materialised into these artefacts.’ I thought this to be a very thoughtful description.

After WWII, the Soviet Union absorbed Poland’s eastern borderlands; Poland acquired Lower Silesia. The 800,000 German population was moved to East Germany, replaced by Poles from the east!!! Wrocław quickly became a cultural centre, with scholars, artists, universities, libraries, museums, etc. So you may argue that, but for the war, I’m in Germany & still have the whole of Poland to ride!!!

In the evening, I made my way back to the apartment, shared a zero beer with Kacper, said our goodbyes, and he was off to the movies. For me, it was bed.

My thanks to Kacper for sharing his flat & some of knowledge on this great city & to Marina for our nice long chat in Café Nero.