I get enjoyment travelling through wilder places the world over, connecting with the locals and likeminded travellers and found bikepacking the perfect way. But, on this occasion, it is not to be.

Today I jumped on an overnight train to Helsinki. Here I will pack my bike and take a few days exploring before heading home to the UK. Despite resting, my mobility did not improve and the thought of hopping from place to place without a clear goal has no appeal. My mind had been set on travelling at a particular pace and way which has proved not possible in my condition. Better that I return home to family and friends, and sort my injuries before heading out again.

Starting the ride was always high risk. Had I sought the opinions of physio, Dan, or my wife, Christine, they probably would have advised against it. I didn’t do that because, in all my past adventures, not once did I regret going. Even now, I’m pleased I came, just disappointed not to have completed it.

Apologies for cutting the blog short, but hope the little I did made a worthwhile read and a glimpse into this wild, remote corner of Europe.

Finland is 75% forest, 10% water, 7.5% farming, 7.5% everything else. It’s 50% bigger than Great Britain with 10% of its population – concentrated in the far south. For me, the draw is the north. Although the roads are few and communities are remote, here, I feel, is where you can still touch the old culture and get interesting stories.

If you don’t mind the climate, it is worth checking out.

Until the next adventure, goodbye and thanks for following!

Today I explored the Arktikum – housing the museum of lapland & the arctic centre – well worth visiting just to experience the building.

Lapland has had a bloody time of late. Back in 1917, Finland became independent from Russia and was quite a bit bigger. Then, at the start of WWII, Russia attacked Finland, who then partnered with Germany & regained their land. Towards the end of the war, the Russians returned, the Germans retreated, destroying everything as they left. Finland was then forced into a treaty with Russia which included giving up 10% of their Lapland.

Further north, Finns hailed Russians as liberators and built monuments to them.

Workday today so late afternoon before I go exploring.

Rovaniemi is on the arctic circle, is Finland’s most northerly city, and sits on the confluence of two wide, mature rivers – one, Kemijoki, being the longest in Finland. These and the endless forests beyond seem to encircle this island of modernity. Forestry, hunting, fishing, and conservation are big here. As is Santa Claus. Rovaniemi is his official home & has a whole village set aside for him & his elves, and the 1000’s who visit every year.

Being Monday, the public galleries, etc. were all closed, so my day was spent exploring the parks & river walks – and there are lots!

The weather was its unpredictable self but the skies were quite magnificent.

Shelters along the way

Today the hotel was very quiet, so Nora, duty manager and I had time for a nice long chat. Her Sami dress uniform had me fooled, she’s Catalan/S Finnish, widely travelled. 8yrs ago she arrived for seasonal work and never left – even stuck out the sunless winters. She says the worse months Nov-Dec are bad. When the snow comes, everywhere becomes bright. For her, the drab winters are had in the south – where there’s no snow.

As a self proclaimed international, she says her home is the square metre she is standing on at the time of being asked. I like that.

With ongoing issues, I decided to stay in Finland and bus to Rovaniemi. Nora gave me her favourite places: Savonlinnia, Pirvoo, Kothan, and to stay east.

My bus ride sliced through endless pine & birch forests, wetlands, and, of course, the lakes.

A few joints are creaking so am toughing it out for a few days in the very pleasant, Wilderness Hotel Inari. It sits on the south shore of Lake Inari (1,040 km2) – almost half the area of Luxembourg, but can claim only 3rd of Finland’s lake size.

With the fortunate exception of my hotel, Inari is waiting for the tourists before opening up proper – the timing of which continues to be ambiguous – though I am now guessing to be due to the unpredictable weather. In the past two days we’ve had everything – sun, rain, hail, and snow. Also the pleasant 15C is now a chilly 4C.