East Entrance to St. Anna’s Tunnel ( which brought me here last night)
The temperature here was to be 30+ today so decided on a rest day. Also, during yesterday’s ride, a past muscle issue had reappeared & added to the decision.
I had a much needed 1 1/2 hearty breakfast before exploring a little of Antwerp City.
Today I was a pedestrian & soon learnt the need to be very aware of the cycle lanes as well as roads. Also, Antwerpen cyclist, scooters, etc. are different from other Belgians – in the old town, with no cycle specific routes to adhere to, they become speed crazy & scary.
The Waterfront
Antwerp’s Giant wheel didn’t impress. Nice but lacks the elegance & grace of its big sister, the London Eye.
Everywhere I went was there was activity, setting up for the 2026 Tall Ships Races which start tomorrow – 11-14July. On the river, newly arrived sailing ships were already drawing crowds & I joined in. Tomorrow, when it all starts, it will likely be manic & very noisy – over one mile of bars & entertainment venues along the waterfront plus many others throughout the city.
A few Blocks from the Waterfront
Brabo Fountain & City Hall behind. Sculpture of legendary Roman soldier, Silvius Brabo. On the right, construction of a large open air stage for this years Tall Ships Race concertAntwerp Old Town, street scene
Snuffel Hostel was a great find. Modern, excellent facilities, caters for all pockets & ages & only 7mins walk to Market Square. Typical of city hostels, open 24/7, bar, lots of chill areas & great staff.
I set off around 9am. In theory, 70 flat miles seemed fine although the heat, & thermals/slight headwinds made it that bit tougher. Today was the 1st time, since my joint ops, I’d cycled this distance & was happy with the result. Another big first was, once more I can scoot on my peddle to mount my bike – wonderful!
Foot ferries along the route
Over 90% of today’s ride was traffic free – along purpose built or segregated cycleways – a phenomenal investment which shows how far behind UK are to the Belgians.
I approached Antwerp from the west, through Linkeroever Park expecting a bridge to take me over the Scheldt River to my hotel 3km on. But there was no bridge! What I eventually found was the entrance to Sint-Annatunnel (St. Anna’s Tunnel) Foot Tunnel. This enormous, impressive 1930’s underground construction serves Belgium’s pedestrian & cycling culture perfectly, & by comparison, dwarfs London’s Woolwich Tunnel. To take you down there’s the choice of escalator or lift, then along the infinitely long tunnel by peddling or walking. I took the escalator up (with my bike) & popped out right in the centre of Antwerp life. Unfortunately, too tired to hang around, I headed on to my hotel.
Last nights bed was at the Cesar Palace Hotel, a couple of blocks from the front. Very nice & reasonably priced.
I tried locating somewhere for breakfast but, except for bakeries, cafes were not open until between 10 & 11. My checkout was at 10 “on the dot” – After handing over the keys, I skipped 1st breakfast in preference to reaching Bruges before the heat.
Cycle track out of Ostend Lots of cyclists Typical cycle path through a village (they also have their own crossings!)Even designated cycleways over bridges.
Again, exceptional riding along the Belgium canals, showing them at their very best. I arrived in Bruges before 1pm, offloaded my bike at the Snuffel Hostel & explored.
First Lunch for the legs
Market Square is the hub from which to explore Bruges, though the square itself has enough to hold you for the whole afternoon.
Marlene & Louis for N Carolina – had me celebrating my birthday a little early
My second lunch was at De Veir Winden, and was sheer indulgence. On a stylish cafe on the square, I needed to try the ice cream & strawberry waffles with fresh cream & Belgium chocolate.
Maybe something to come back for
I passed the time with Marlene & Louis from North Carolina, USA, here for the annual, Gent Jazz Festival – drawing such names as Van Morrison – seems my type of event!! On asking about my journey, I mentioned I’d be arriving in Kosmach around my birthday. They insisted on a celebration glass. Many thanks!
On the Square the Ukrainian Flag takes pride of placeMunicipal Building Municipal Building interiorMunicipal Cafe – worth checking outThe Bell Tower court yard – €16 to walk to the top
In need of a good sleep to ready myself for tomorrow, by 6pm I was back at the hostel, feet up.
The protocol when passing other cyclists is different to the UK. Here, the norm is to divert the eyes, ignore the existence of the other cyclist. If you dare risk a slight wave, the stare of disapproval back is unmistakable. In the UK its obligatory to nod or wave with an 80% favourable response, not to do so may be considered rude. My theory – it may have been the practice here once, but with so many cyclists, it’s just all too much!
The only good thing about warm nights is that washing is dry by the next morning. Other options employed: hanging in bathrooms overnight with extractor, campfires, wearing or strapped to the cycle or placing in a laundry bag – with minimal spare clothes, this is the last resort.
My Room
B&B was the most expensive & worst I hope to experience. A noisy, coffin sized room without an en-suite. The traffic noise began around 5am. My earplugs were excellent though extracting them requires tweezers!
Crossing the Channel to Dunkirk was interesting. I’d booked a 2pm ferry but accepted the offer of a 12noon sailing. Unfortunately due to someone falling ill on the inboard crossing, I still ended up only leaving at 2pm.
Calais or wait for Dunkirk – tough call for some
At ferry terminals, cyclists receive preferential treatment, & typically congregate in front of the queuing vehicles. Here I met serious multi-day cyclist, Bill Tilanus from the Netherlands. Though never ridden, he’s fascinated by the GDMBR, & is extremely knowledgeable. It is quite possible he knows every inch from Banff to Antelope Wells. I shared my knowledge &, of course, directed him to my johnworthington.blog.
Due to the uncertain sailing time of the 12noon ferry, he hurriedly accepted an offer to Calais. The world is a better place for travellers like Bill Tilanus & Colin Barton – inspired to travel & share their experiences.
With my bike well tethered, I headed up to the Premium Lounge to relax & to consume my 1st & 2nd lunch. The challenge is constant – how to consume enough liquid & fuel to keep my energy levels up.
I found Dunkirk smart, attractive & functional. The Dover I left was tired & drab looking. The contrast is very stark – similar to that between Niagara USA & Niagara Canada
A few pictures of today’s ride through France & Belgium.
France – Belgium Border
France & Belgium’s tolerance for cyclists is far superior to the UK. Nicely marked lanes, drivers who actually like us & even give way when they don’t have to. My ride was through modern & medieval villages, long stretches of canals & countryside – all outstanding.
Rather than accepting an inferior, annoying fix for my top-tube bag, I donated it to the nice cleaning lady. I tightened my chain, & refuelled with a 1st & 2nd breakfast before riding off into the baking heat. People were already searching for shade, & it was only 9am!!
North Downs Lanes & Trails
For the early part of today I rode the North Downs Way. A fair mix of surfaces, nice views, plenty of shade & very few people.
Colin Barton – fellow adventure cyclist
Along the way I met Colin Barton, out for an off-road blast. We soon discovered a common interest in multi day cycling – for hm it’s Europe. Still in his 50’s, he has many adventure ahead of him. I think he will be following from here on.
Lenham Village – lots of charm & lots going on!
My second lunch was in the beautiful, medieval Kent village of Lenham.
Hythe ParkHythe Promenade
At Hythe I hit the coast. With only 11miles to my Dover B&B, I had a nice tailwind & cooling temperatures – for 6miles it was peddling luxury!
Pictures en route to Folkestone – when I was feeling smugFolkestone
All changed after Folkestone – 1st a tortuous road climb before a serious off road bike drag which continued for 0.5mls!!
Hard to show a vertical trail but this is one!
I started on up, but turned around following advice from a holiday maker who claimed it was impossible. However, unable to find an alternative, I attacked this near vertical track again hard & I needed to – I have the cuts & stings to prove it. But once done, I picked up the road down to Dover.
Sarah, me holding River, & Sarah holding Arnie (& finally all smiling) Christine with Arnie
By 8am the house was already buzzing with action. Sarah & the two kids were breakfasting, readying for a child’s birthday party, and lots of other entertaining things . I too was busy kitting up, shedding unnecessary weight from my pack – managed 4kg, and a little childminding myself!
Before departing the Worthington Team photo needed taking, unfortunately minus nephew, Dan, who was in Washington state on his own adventure. Nevertheless, Sarah had pulled it off – a lovely host to Christine & me, whilst successfully engaging two energetic, but adorable children – awesome!
Now I’m really on my own!
Christine & I had a quieter goodbyes over coffee, then I was on my way.
Today it was Silverworks Island’s Drum & Base Event & needed steer through a queue of thousands. Overall though, being Sunday, the ride through & out of London wasn’t too bad.
Woolwich Foot tunnel & me – somewhere under the Themes Woolwich Dockland living – very nice! Woolwich ferry – if preferred. More Woolwich – you can see I do like the place!!
Woolwich Foot Tunnel North Lift was out so bounced my bike 126 Victorian, cast iron steps down to the walkway. Luckily, South Lift.
QE II Bridge in suburba
Aview of the Queen Elizabeth II Bridge front humdrum urbanisation feels a collision of two worlds
Rochester & The Medway. – bad shot – sorry
I’d made Walderslade, in good time, & the temperature had dropped to a pleasant 20C so continued another 10 miles south of Maidstone. A trialing new solutions to the reoccurring seat bag rubbing issue & the newly purchased top-tube bag straps snapping all added to the days
Uninteresting gravel Much better !
Today’s ride highlights were: Woolwich Foot Tunnel, Kent’s attractive villages & the view of Medway & Rochester & the green lanes on the North Downs.
Friday daytime was spent in Walthamstow’s, Hoe Street. Its thriving market, shops & cafes held Christine & my interest for most of the day. Although we had a few unlikely items to buy to tweak my bike’s set up, the place delivered. Everything seemed to be available in a mile or less.
Tower Bridge
The Topuziak family had gifted us a Thames river cruise with dinner. It was absolutely fabulous, exceeding both our expectations, & more. At 7:45pm we pushed off from the Embankment’s Westminster pier, in glorious, warm sunshine against a backdrop of Big Ben, the London Eye, Tower Bridge – first downriver in daylight then the return in dusk & after dark. At night the river (especially the Shard) shows itself to be the most awesome place !
Saturday was spent with Sarah & her two delightful kids, River 3 , & Arnie 2. We wandered to a quieter, more refined Walthamstow for a browse, lunch & kids stuff. Very nice but very aware that tomorrow I’ll be waving off to familiar faces for the last time!
Last night I chose a ‘A Lovely Homes’ house in Aylesbury. It was actually a well marked HMO! Still, it did its job and provided a living room to store my bike. Another guest was a pro darts player, down from Scotland – off to LA next week for a big stakes tournament.
My focus today is London for 2days R&R spending time with Sarah & children, plus Christine is travelling down. After this I’ll not see another familiar face until Kosmach.
Nice climb after my 1st breakfast
Riding through the Chiltern hills to Amersham was quite spectacular with a few tough, long off-road climbs – highly recommend, especially if you are travelling a little lighter than me. Everywhere is at a larger scale than yesterday, very deep, sunken, wooded dirt lanes, more altitude & vistas.
A great view of the enormous HS2 in the valley, opinions of which are not always favourable.
HS2 LineHS2 – An Alternative Point Of View
Amersham itself is a lively, affluent town and at its best on this perfect sunny day. Also a great place to calorie load.
The afternoon ride was slower & less interesting the closer to London I got. The cycleways were more frequent but drivers not so great. Also, how many people walk around looking down at their phones, totally oblivious of their surroundings (& me)!!
Watford Town
One big surprise was the town of Watford – it was buzzing & a place not to be dismissed!
Reached Sarah & Dan’s just after 6pm, Christine had arrived shortly before. Another lovely welcome. A little time with children – River & Arnie, dinner & a very pleasant evening.
Karen’s breakfast did not disappoint & neither did Mike, his offer to ride the first 25ml to Wappenham was greatly received. He geared up to look the part, pictures were taken &, together, we set off.
Mike & Karen Burnett
Warwickshire, Northamptonshire & good weather gave us great cycling – rolling hills, quiet country lanes & idyllic villages. On roads, my bike was no match for Mike’s racer – off-road was another story. A 16ml coffee break at the Crumbs cafe, Eydon, then a few gravel road miles later we reached the farewell point. Thanks again both for a very memorable stopover!!
Time to split
I had reached as far as Buckingham before Karen’s breakfast was finally spent & needed to refuel before continuing on to Aylesbury & my bed for the night.
Last night’s bed was the Cuttle Bridge Hotel, beside the Birmingham & Fazelpy Canal. With a 38 miles ride today, I hung around until after midday trying to add GoPro videos to my blog. Not straight forward!
Today’s ride had a few worthy sections but will be remembered for the disproportionate time spent cycling Coventry’s hazardous road system & for the wonderful welcome received on my arrival at Mike & Karen Burnett’s home. Whilst working for GE, for many years, Mike & I had run the Siemens Wind Power account & became good friends.
Dinner with the Burnett’s
With 2yrs to catch upon, there was lots to talk about, especially trips & adventures, past & future, all enjoyed with fabulous food (Oksana you may have competition!! 🤣).